My house was built in 1996. Most of the interior woodwork (interior doors, inside of windows, stairs, base trim) is painted white. I remember seeing the painters spraying the doors etc during construction.
My only problem is that a few windows are peeling on the inside. Especially in the master bath. The paint where it’c currently peeling comes off pretty easily. It shows bare, clean wood underneath so I doubt any primer was used.
I want to fix those 3 – 4 windows.
1) What kind of paint do you think was used? Latex – oil?
2) How can I find out?
3) Other than spraying (I have a compressor but no sprayer or experience) how can I achieve the smooth finish of the original without looking like an amature job?
3a) Should I invest in a sprayer?
4) I will probably use a primer on the bare spots after I sand and feather the spots. Any tips on best primer?
Any answers or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Dick J
Replies
We can surmise the cause of the failure; but, let's go to the fix. For what it's worth, I'd strip all the loose paint and sand the rest pretty much down to wood, maybe even strip the sashes, apply stabilizer to any soft bits, use a good primer (shellac-based if I was worried about moisture), and 2 coats of glossy enamel.
IMHO, you'll have to re-caulk and repaint the exterior of these windows too. There are no short-cuts. I'll be interested in hearing the opinions of others on this.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
If you use an oil base paint you can get a smooth surface with a brush.
Do the windows come out? If they do you can lay them flat and paint them. You paint the details and the edges first. Then with a larger brush you lay on a nice coat of high quality oil paint on the face of the window.
If it's done right it looks much better than sprayed finish in my opinion. Sprayed paint has no texture. It looks dead to me. The brush marks leave behind a pattern that shows how well the painter was.
When the one side is dry enough to pick up turn it over and set it on blocks on the glass. That way it won't stick to the table.
You can speed things up but that is it basically. Get good at painting with a brush. It's not that hard.
Yes the windows come out.
They are aluminum clad outside, so no problems there.
Any problem using oil over latex (if latex orig used)?
Use Kilz primer?
Since the major issues are in the master bath, I want to make sure whatever I put on sticks good!
There's not rot. The bare wood looks brand new.
Thanks for the responses so far
Edited 7/31/2007 12:06 pm ET by rwjiudice
"Any problem using oil over latex (if latex orig used)?"
Yes, bonding problems if you're talking about topcoats of paint.
Peel, scrape, and sand as needed to remove anything that doesn't put up a fight.
Oil based primer can go over bare wood, latex paint, or oil.
Once you've done that, you can use latex or oil, that primer accepts both.
My preference for a top coat would be a very good brush, some "flow" agent (flood brand is very good), and two coats of the best paint you can afford...buic
"two coats of the best paint you can afford..."
And would that be a latex or oil paint?
Thanks for responding...
For most interior work, my preference is latex and/or 100% acrylic.
There have been 100's of posts in previous threads about the best brands.
I generally use ben. moore or shr. williams...buic
From an overexperienced HO's perspective:
All these guys are right. But since you're listing things, I will also.
1. Doesn't matter what was used. This upcoming project YOU need to do requires the best paint. Because you are about to see why you don't want to do this again.
Consumers Reports does a great job of reporting what's the best paint. So will the guys behind the counter at a real paint store. Ask for their best and tell them what's its going to be used for. And then ask for the best primer to go with it. But odds are very high they'll recommend (as others mentioned) 100% acryclic.
2. Take a peeled sample to the real paint store. Ask them if it matters. They'll probably say the primer takes away that issue.
3. Follow this:
A. Cut out a piece of 3/8 or so thick (of a cheep siding material from one of the big boxes) exactly the same size as the window you're gonna paint. Has to be square (or at least the same square as the window frame).
B. Cut two pieces of 1x2 about two inches longer than the window is wide. Drill a 3/8's hole in their middles on the flat side.
C. Remove your window. Replace it with this piece of plywood so the painted side is out (lasts longer). Have your helper hold it in place. Or figger out a way to keep it in place.
D. From the inside, hortizontally place one of the 1 by strips about 1/3 from the top of the window opening so it's resting on the window casing away from the ply.
E. Drill another hole thru the ply using the strip's hole as a jig. Avoid your helper's palm.
F. Insert a rounded square cap 3" by 5/16ths bolt from the outside in thru the 1by. and screw on a corresponding large washer and nut from the inside.
G. Repeat with the second 1by about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the opening. Do this for each window. 4 panes at any one time is enough. Any more than that and you'll be playing games with sufficient work space.
Now your window opening is sufficiently sealed so's you can take your time with the stripping and repainting.
H. In the cleaned out garage or basement, get yourself a two workmates and clamp in a 8' 2x4 longwise and on edge in each one. Position them so they're a bit closer than what your windows are high.This gives a raised edge for your window to lay on at hip height so's you don't break your back. Lay rosin paper down first.
I. All weatherstripping has to come off. Remove carefully without tearing out or damaging those little grooves. Those grooves need to be in perfect condition to receive the replacement. Make plans early on finding replacement that is the same or better than the original. Sometimes you may have to go to the factory or distributor and it takes time. Don't play with restoring the old stuff. Get new.
J. Somehow, someway the old paint has to come off. Many times those scrapers you see in the paint section of the hardware are the easiest way to get the job done. But you gotta practice on something else before you find that you've dug a ditch across the wood. We're not talking about most of the old paint - ALL of it. Every stinking drop.
Sandpaper does wonders. So does chemical stripping - if you're careful. Practice safe chemical hygiene. Follow instructions. From the peeled sample you took to the paint store, the paint guy can tell you which stripper to use. Check out those foam sanpaper blocks to see if they could fit your window's trim profile.
Take your time. There are no awards given for doing this job half azzed. It's your house, the job has to meet your satisfaction five, ten years from now.
K. After the wood feels as smooth as your girlfriends behind (or should feel) and looks new, follow the instruction for using the primer. (Kilz is a fine primer, but it excels at covering up stains - it "kilz stains," not fungus or rot.) You'l probably want to use a brush , likea 1" or 1 1/2" sash or trim angled brush. Buy the most expensive brush the store has. Follow the instructions on the bushes container for use and care. Don't forget to paint the little grooves, but don't let them clog up with paint.
L. After the primer has dried, lightly sand using a 120 or higher grit. You're just taking off the tits (as Piffin calls them) and keeping the surface smooth for the next coat.
M. Depending upon how smooth that coat appears, determines whether another is needed. Do what it takes.
N. When selecting your paint, ask the paint man about something to enhance the paint's "lay." I believe most use Floetrol.
O. Using a previously used and thoroughly cleaned brush (avoiding falling out hairs) place the paint using your best stroke and technique. Follow the grain. An even coat over the whole frame. Let the window sit and dry without fooling with it or letting anything fall upon it.
P. Depending upon how well you did the first coat, determines whether a second is needed. Don't for a minute hesitate about doing a second if there is ANY reason whatsoever. In fact, plan on it.
R. Let the paint completely dry. Carefully cut away the paint on the glass using a razor blade. Don't scratch the glass! Leave about a 1/8th overlay. Tape is good for acheiving that gap. In which case, no razor blade.
S. Reattach all hardware and weatherstipping and turn your attention to the window frame in the wall.
Remove the plywood and address the same issues on the frame as you did on the window. Remove all paint and weatherstripping. Repair or replace any damaged wood or hardware. Paint as described above and carefully reinstall the weatherstripping.
Reinstall the window after all paint has thoroughly dried.
Do all of your windows so you know they were all done in 2007 without having to recheck every year.