When painting wood double hung sashes do I prime and paint, (laxtex semi top coat), the entire sash, edges & the bevel ??
Or do I:
#1 leave the side edges & bevel bare wood.
#2 Prime entire window, but no top coat sides & bevel.
I don’t want the sashes to stick in the tracks.
The sashes have been removed and the tracks have already been painted and new parting stops will be installed.
I have heard that painting both surfaces, esp. laxtex semi, will cause the sash to stick in the tracks.
I couldn’t find anything in a search.
Replies
I'm being kinda dense, b/c I'm not sure what you mean by the "bevel." Muntins? Or the bottom of the bottom sash?
I'm refurbishing several double-hung windows at home (de-glaze, strip paint, re-glaze, re-paint). Based on reading up over at the Historic Homeworks forum, I didn't paint the outside of the stiles. What I did do is "treat" all of the bare wood with a mix of linseed oil, turpentine, and Penetrol. The idea was to keep the wood from absorbing too much of the oil from the glazing putty and to provide some protection for the sides of the sashes without making them stick in the channels.
I did paint the bottom of the bottom sash and the top of the top sash- I'm relying on the weatherstripping bulbs there to help keep them from sticking to the sill and head jamb.
Hope that helps.
Bevel, the bottom bevel of the top sash and the top of the bottom sash, where the two comes togethier @ the lash.
I was thinking the same, leave the sides bare and rub with a wax.
Is there any sorce for vynial replacement jamb liners????
Edited 10/6/2009 9:42 am ET by cameraman
Meeting rails. I painted these- also relying on the bulb seal to help keep them from sticking. Realistically, it wouldn't take a lot of muscle to break apart if they did.
Here's where I got the wood treatment mix that I use. The site owner (John Leeke) uses a recipe that's slightly different. I'd use the liquid over the wax.
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1273
Have no idea about jamb liners.