Replies

1. 
   CAGIV | Sep 22, 2006 07:04am | #1

   I can't offer any help on the particulars of installation, however is it really going to matter if the house floods?

   

1. 
   Jer | Sep 22, 2006 01:51pm | #2

   I just am finishing up a 16x16 room in my basement where I used the paperless drywall on the bottom 4' all the way around. I saw it at the HD and read up on it a bit. It claims the same properties as greenboard except that it doesn't give a place for mold & mildew to settle...at least it's a lot harder for it to. They claim it's the best for basements and bathrooms. I wanted greenboard for the bottom half of the wall because that part of the house sits at the bottom of a swail, even though thus far the room has been bone dry. The price for the paperless was the same as the green board, I think around $11.00 for 4x8 so I though why not try it.
   It installs and finishes exactly the same as regular rock. Time will tell.

2. 
   kenbrooks | Sep 22, 2006 04:16pm | #5

   I think it would help prevent mold growth if the water came in and out relatively quickly as
   it does in most floods. The paper is the source of mold growth, not the inert gypsum.kenbroods

1. 
   CAGIV | Sep 22, 2006 05:10pm | #6

   I see your point but you're still going to have a wooden structure that is suseptable to mold, paper or not on the drywall.

   I would like to hear more from people who have used it though, the product has my interest for bathrooms but it's not available locally as of yet.

    

2. 
   WINSTALL | Sep 22, 2006 03:30pm | #3

   WHAT IS THE POINT, UNLESS HE INCORPORATES WEEP HOLES AND DOES NOT USE INSULATION. HE WILL HAVE ON WHALE OF A MOULD PROBLEM WITH INSULATION.
   WHERE DO THESE PUOPLE GET THEIR IDEAS FROM?????

3. 
   ruffmike | Sep 22, 2006 03:47pm | #4

   I agree with the others. Maybe the densglass won't rot, but what about the mud you finish it with ?

    Better to spend the money lifting the house.

                               Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

4. 
   CapnMac | Sep 22, 2006 08:03pm | #7

   If the concern is for flood damage, as opposed to just high humidity levels, then the design really wants major changes.

   Like metal studs, going to cementitious board walls (or osb at the costs); some sort of solid-filled insulation (spray-in foam, for instance) to completely fill the stud bays. 

   The water fills the inside of the walls as well as the outside.  There is silt suspended in the water.  When the water decelerates, the silt falls out of that suspension.  It then lands where it lands.  Like the insides of stud bays.  It's also generally full of all sorts of organic matter, too.  Aerobic and anaerobic material, too--all of which will support all manner of growing things.  All of which has to be shoveled out of every single stud bay.  BTDT.

   Now, all is not lost.  If we design the wall to move the insulation and weather-proofing plane to the outside of the structural plane, that allows a number of choices to be made.  Like using rigid insulating boards.  Like having "cottage style" exposed "structure" (which could, stress could, be allowed to flood and then drain.

   This is likely to be a lot less cost than trying to only "fix" one part of an entire wall system.  But, I've been to a flood before (ok, after) all the times I ever care to, lifetime.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
5. 
   BryanSayer | Sep 22, 2006 08:25pm | #8

   In order to remain "paperless" you need to use fiberglass tape with it, not paper.