I have had good (enough) sucess in patching knockdown wall texture with the spray cans.
Now I have two popcorn ceilign repairs. One in around a ceiling fan where hey have a leak. Not such if any DW needs to be replaced or I can just patch the one some blister.
But I an not concerned about that area as the ceiling fan hides the area.
But there is also an area in the bathroom that has an area about 2×3 ft that just pealed down to DW and tape. No water stains. Caused by high humidity and possibly a kid playing with the shower. There is also floor damage from using the tub as proving ground for battleship manevers.
The texture appears to be heavy and almost like vinyl wall paper. I am wondering if it reasonable to just patch that with a can or should I plan on scraping the whole area (about 6 x 5 ft).
And if I do can that big of area be textured with the spray cans? What about one of the hand pump sprayers. I don’t see doing enough texturing for a “big rig”.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Replies
I wrote here on another post about using one of those new (at least to me) texturizing spray cans. With the high pressure stuff you could do an area 5' x 6' in about 3 seconds! 2' x 3' might take two micro-bursts! Just cover everything you con't want hosed with that stuff.
On the other hand, in a bathroom, I would be sorely tempted to remove all the popcorn and make it smooth so it can be washed, or at least so you don't have stuff that can get moldy and nasty. It is sooo much nicer to paint a nice, hard, flat surface instead of that rotten popcorn!
I would be tempted.But the whole house is the same. And the bathroom is a little strange. Only one bathroom (unless there is one is the basement - raised ranch with tuckunder garage).Hall entrance and entrance from MB. That by it'self is not that unusual.But there is a fake header so that the tub and door to the master bedroom is one section and the stool/basin is the other. But no door between them..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Everything that CAG said!
I had to redo the scuttle hole in a house, simple 30" X 30", hell I thought the can would be the ideal thing for this seamingly simple job, BS, man what a mess.
Like CAG one can had the nozzle plug, once the propelent escapes the can is worthless, second can............ Well fast forward to three cans and still not done so I made up some popcorn mix and loaded the hopper and did it right, still not as big a mess to clean up as those damn cans.
Doug
Even if the whole rest of the house has popcorn it's common for the bath and kitchen to have smooth ceilings. Popcorn in a bath is guaranteed trouble.
If you must redo the popcorn, get a couple of good coats of paint over it to seal it.
I'd leave the can at the store.
Those cans are a royal PITA.
I've used them on 3 occasions, first time it worked...until the nozzle became stuck and shot all over the damn place, it took over an hour to clean up the mess, and I had the area covered pretty well before hand.
2nd time, can didn't work we used a hopper, last time, it worked well enough but I still don't like them.
It's not that hard to blow & blend in the ceiling with a compressor and hopper if you have one, trickiest part is getting the mix to the right consistency. It's also easier to feather it in with the hopper IMO.
For a 5x6 area I would be tempted to scrape it all and redo it to make sure there was no chance of seeing the patch. Has the ceiling been painted?
I'll mention it one more time, forget the can.
I use "Homax" brand spray cans often with excellent results. Those who complain about clogging and bad patterns may be using the wrong brand.
I use Smooth Set 20 hot mud to repair the substrate. Be sure to feather out the edge of the repaired area to eliminate a sharp border that will show through. If you overlap the surrounding textured area, your drywall knife or trowel will leave a visible border. Be sure to feather the boundaries of the repair with a damp sponge before you texture.
I like the water based blue formula from Homax. It sprays on blue so you can easily see droplet size and coverage as well as drying (it dries white). They also have a "contractors" version in a red-on-white can; alcohol based and faster drying, but does not feather easily and won't clean up with water.
Overlap the margins of the repair well into the existing textured area. You can clean up any overspray with a damp sponge immediately or after it dries. After it dries you can also feather the margins if necessary.BruceT
Edited 10/21/2007 8:05 pm by brucet9
Have used both the cans, pump, and hopper.
Now only use cans for really small stuff - or the hopper for anything bigger than 1 can - never buy 2 cans.
Never use the spray (pump ) again. - glad it was someone else's.
It sucked!
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City