Patching stained or clearcoated trim
Gene_Davis
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
We are talking about stained or clearcoated trim here. Not painted.
What are your secrets for beautifying all those things that happen or go wrong?
Nail holes, gouges, opened-up joints, etc.
There are water-based fillers, solvent-based fillers, epoxy fillers, fillers you make with witches brew and sawdust, and more. Then there are all the wax-based kinds you burn in, press in, trowel in, etc.
What do you use?
Replies
On clear coated trim you have to be real picky on the pieces you use and plan on at least a 30% waste allowance. Everything has to be put together carefully. That being said, nail holes for me are filled with a sawdust paste made from the wood used mixed with some of the finish to be used.
Any hairline joint openings I see as something you have to live with for making the choice of clear coat finish. I've never seem an attempt to cover then that didn't look much worse than than the opening.
Gouges and wood defects have to be dealt with by being picky once again as you cut the trim.
Stained woodwork I handle in much the same was execpt I use wax crayons for nail holes but make sure joints are done properly at the time it's installed.
Clear Coat: Back-cut all miters and glue. Elmers putty and sand while not yet hard(stiff- very small window)
Stain: Same as above but with stain putty. Its a powder form and you mix it with your stain. I try not to shake the stain can and use the stain off the top. That way not to use alot of pigment bc the stain putty tends to darken slightly.