I’m doing some remodeling to my 1914 house and I cannot find replacement moulding to match (or even come close to match) the original moulding. I could possibly fabricate it with the right router bits, but I would rather purchase the moulding complete and save time and possibly money.
My local (SW Michigan) manufacturer does not offer the product I’m looking for, but is willing to make it if I need 500 lineal feet or more. Unfortunately I need only about 50′.
Any thoughts?
Replies
Find a smaller operation that has a planer/moulder like a cabinet shop. pay the tool charge for the cutter grinder. After they run your job you will own the cutters if you ever need more.
There may be places on line that make the cutting blades.
I've got a place here in town that makes the cutters for $175 (for a 5 1/2 inch wide piece) and then runs the material for $1.80 lin. ft.
It's a molding shop that then farms out the work to someone else. If I could get hold of that someone else, I'm sure it would be cheaper, but I've shopped around and can't get much less than that. As the poster above stated. I own the cutters now and can have more made if I need. Or if I ever buy a shaper, I can make my own.
Edited 7/18/2004 1:42 pm ET by workinhard
I figure it takes at least two or three hundred feet to begin to be worth a custom setup.
http://www.dykeslumber.com/
I get a lot of good stuff here.
But for only fifty feet, the shipping will cost you more than the trim will.
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Excellence is its own reward!
I often do small runs like that. It will be cheaper to make yer own.
I also am not afraid of handplaning to final shape, or making the coves on a TS instead of investing in more cutters.
If you get GOOD CLEAR stock...it goes fast..you need a TS,a jointer, a router and table, maybe a few moulding planes, maybe a moulding head cutter for the TS..that's about it.
You may find it's actually enjoyable..I do.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
If you can post a drawing of the profile, maybe somebody will know of a source.
Another possibility to consider, if you can find something that's close, maybe you can move some of the existing moulding around so that the new new stuff is far enough away from the old stuff to disguise the difference.
Ditto what Uncle Dunc said!
send a pic please,maybe we've it wherever we maybe.
tyke
just another day in paradise
What the three guys before me said.
Show a picture or drawing, early 1900's moulding cant be that difficult. For 50' listen to what Sphere says, cant be that difficult, you can probably do it in one afternoon.
Doug
Ok, I have a very crude drawing. How do I post it?
scan it, save as a jpeg..in "my docs" hit the reply to this, hit attach, find doc in ''my docs' highlite or open it to go to the upload..wwwwaaaiiittt for the U/L , then click 'done' then hit post.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
You left out the part about disabling popup eliminators.
no, I really left out, a spit and a prayer, or promise.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Here's the pic. I'm primarily concerned about replicating the base cap. If you can't read the dimensions, they are 2 3/8"(H) x 3/4"(W).
I hope the file loaded. If not let me know.
Thanks for the help
wow, good timing..I just got here and BOOM..
EASY dude..very easy
The lower is a radius that MAY be made by adding a fence skewed to the blade of the TS..by running the stock ACROSS the VERY low blade, and raiseng the blade in 1/8'' increments. You actually need to use 2 pcs. of say, 1x6 clamped to the table to capture the stock, and I like to add a "bridge" over the top to act as a hold down and keep the fences parallel.
A blade of a different diameter may be needed..if the radius is real tite a 7'' blade on a 10'' saw MAY work..use the sample as a set up guide.
Also could be done with a core box/round nose router bit..check out http://www.routerbits.com for available diameters..
The upper pc. is a bastard OGEE I would begin by beveling off the waste, trace the desired profile on the end of the stock, cove away the concave area as above, and complete the convex with a block plane and sanding blocks, made to the negative of the finished PC. Cut the rabbit FIRST, while the stock is rectangular. use a dado blade, or router with a rabbet bit.
If ya really get in a jam..email me [email protected] I'll get ya hooked up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Truckie
Do as sphere says, I wouldnt go out and have some shop cut any knives for 50', I think thats what you said you needed.
Not trying to diss what sphere says but I think I would cut my radius on the bottom of that top piece before I cut the rabbit, that would give me something for my router bit bearing to ride on. I'm sure there are a number of ways to do it though.
Doug, Doug, Doug,
do I have to teach you everything? a fence on the router table, who needs a bearing..?
I should have addressed that part in more detail..after rereading his post..those round overs are cake on a table..I often only use part of the radius and always like to use the table and fences or feather boards.
If he really wants to do it, it's a day to do it and sanding...at most.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Ok, I didnt consider the table! Your right though, one day max and the satisfaction of saving some money on the knives.
Doug
If it was me (and living where I do), I'd take that photo and scout out the cabinet shops, small wood-working shops, woodworking clubs, and maybe the antique shops: you will turn up someone, not necessarily a pro, who has a shaper (or a molding cutter) and would be willing to run 50' for costs and a few bucks..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario