No problem hooking it up, but I suspect I need to support the inside end of the sillcock? Through a 2 x4 between 2 joists, clamped across the 2 x 4, strapped to a joist, or?
Thanks.
No problem hooking it up, but I suspect I need to support the inside end of the sillcock? Through a 2 x4 between 2 joists, clamped across the 2 x 4, strapped to a joist, or?
Thanks.
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Replies
I don't really understand your problem, maybe a diagram would help. A pex to 1/2" wing elbow comes to mind though.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
I just did that.
And I was going to run the copper in a Z shape towards the wall and put a clamp on the wall before going to PEX.
But I found that the sscrews through the from of the facuet into the siding where enough to hold it in place.
If you want more holding then run a 2x4 perpendicular to the body of the faucet (I am thing of a frost proof) and then install a strap clamp.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Reading your post I see that your faucet is going in the edge of the floor system. I'm guessing that it is a long frost-free sill cock. The mounting screws into the rim joist will be good enough (assuming a dimensional lumber rim joist). If it is an engineered rim board you might want to back it up with a block. Other than that, put a pipe hanger connecting the pex to the nearest joist. I think you are supposed to use those plastic hangers though - not the metal strapping - not sure though...
Not sure what the concern is though. Do you think it will get disturbed from the inside?
Edited 4/16/2008 7:01 am ET by Matt
As said in prior posts the screw should support the outside ok. Keep in mind the inside end should be higher than the outside, so after the valve is turned off the water can drain out, this prevents freezing. So when you put the inside blocking in it should have maybe a 1/4 inch of fall or so depending on the length of the silcock.
In cold wheather be sure to remove the hose so the valve can drain properly.
It is a frost proof sillcock and I was trying to determine if I'll need some kind of support for it at the sillcock/Pex junction. Sounds like some of you do and some don't. <g>Thanks.
You don't need any support inside. If you want to add some, that isn't going to hurt anything. For something like that I would probably just use a 2x4, and drill a hole through the middle large enough to put the plastic pipe hangers with the ears (they look like mickey mouse's head) to lock it in.But all the ones I put in are only supported by the two screws to mount it to the outside. Use stainless screws and if there is a trim block that the sillcock is mounted to or anything else, just use long enough screws to grab into some framing. If you are mounting through where there is only plywood, I would probably add a 2x4 on the inside so the screws can grab into that.If you have not bought it yet, make sure you get a 1/4 turn sillcock and like someone else said, make sure it pitches down so it drains correctely. The 1/4 are a little more but much nicer to use.