A little light reading, snipped from the Hafele site.
Q: Why shouldn’t I just use drywall screws?
A: Drywall screws are excellent for doing what they were designed for; penetrating through a paper-wrapped slab of a chalk-like substance (gypsum), then into a piece of dry pine.
They feature an aggressive rolled thread, have a small shank, (the un-threaded part of the screws length) and are made very hard, through a quick heating process, to keep the drive sockets in the heads from stripping out. Sounds good, but there are some drawbacks to the drywall screw that make it an inappropriate fastener for most cabinetmaking and furniture making applications. The hardness of the drywall screw makes it prone to breaking, just as the head encounters resistance.
Believe it or not, what we need is a softer screw. Screws which are made for use in wood, plywood and particle board, undergo additional heat treating known as annealing, which takes a tempered (hardened) screw down a few notches in hardness. This leaves the screw with a little “spring” to it, which allows it to survive the rigors it will encounter in cabinetmaking.
As for the aggressive rolled thread and the smaller shank, these are still present on these high-tech “production” screws, such as the Hospa, Zip-R and Spax screws. What about the higher price of these vs. the drywall screw? Think about the last time you had to repair the damage caused by your driver gouging across your panel because the head snapped off. What did you save using the drywall screw?
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