Replies

1. 
   Obie_Wan_Ryobi | Jul 20, 2000 11:30pm | #1

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   Too soft, Nick. You glue it down and you'll regret having to remove it when the high heel marks have destroyed it. Search the archives ...

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   Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 11:42pm | #2

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   Old growth yellow pine from a salvage source might be hard enough. And the color is wonderful, in my opinion.

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   Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 11:51pm | #3

   *Wide pine boards are common in N.E. for floors in older homes..but Obie Wan is more than a little correct about the ding and dent factor ....real estate agents call it "character". If you do it, don't glue it, let the boards acclimate to the room before installing .....screws and plugs are fine, cut nails are an alternative.

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   Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 12:09am | #4

   *There was a lot of discussion of pine flooring (but perhaps not about attaching it) about two weeks ago on this thread (probably lots more in the archives):http://webx.taunton.com/Webx?128@@.ee96d7a

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   Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 01:35am | #5

   *Hi Nick,I assume that this is flat stock that you have or have access to and you want to mill it with a t&g joint for your floor in a bedroom.Yes it is softer than most woods commonly used for flooring but has been used extensively over the past few centuries in many parts of the country.It stains up well and the wide boards can be quiet attractive.Mark up the underlay to identify your joists below and glue the boards to the underlay but not to each other and then use a countersink bit prior to screwing through to the joist. This will give you a straight line of clean round recessed hole to fill with small plugs. Lots of work but looks spectacular.Use a good polyruatane with several coats to give a good surface and enjoy.Gabe

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   Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 02:08am | #6

   *If you're going to T&G it yourself, you may gunk up a few router bits. It needs to be pretty flat, or your grooves/tongues will get out of whack, and sloppy. You might consider shiplapping it, you will bet almost the same benefit and i possiblyless squeeking with shiplap joints. Don't do it if you expect it to not show wear, but plan on scratching and denting, to look old/rustic. Definitely do not glue this floor down. The cut nails, face-nailed and not in a perfectly straight line, and at odd, randowm angles to each other look good for an old fashioned floor. Don't stain it, if you do, the scratches will show more. Use either a gymfloor urethane or marine varnish and you'll get good protection and a beautiful finish.Be sure to sand and tack between coats. I'd use a minimum of three coats.MD

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   Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 04:32pm | #8

   *CaseyR, didn't see your previous post outlining densities and hardnesses, very informative and interesting, thanks.Skip, as Casey points out, there are several species that may be considered SYP. I believe what we call SYP may vary somewhat regionally. In this region (Ozarks) it almost exclusively loblolly. I have a couple thousand loblollies on my place, although I planted more than 10 thousand! Most of what is planted around here is loblolly, I believe that is also true for the Ouachitas and eastern Texas. I can't put my finger on a reference, but believe the species changes in the deep south (AL, MS, GA). Can't even remember what it is though. (Gee, that was informative!)

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   Nick_Shema | Jul 21, 2000 04:32pm | #7

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   I'm thinking about using 1x12 pine boards for flooring in a bed room. I'm planning on T&G'ing the edges and then glue and screw the boards down over a subfloor of 3/4 inch plywood. Has anyone done such a thing before? You think it will work?