Any techniques out there for removing a shower nipple broke off right at edge of the brass 90 degree fitting in the wall. I need something that will fit inside the end of the the nipple and twist it out of the brass fitting.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about removing masonry chimneys and ask about blocked ridge vents, deal-breakers with fixer-uppers, and flashing ledgers that are spaced from the wall.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Inside pipe wrench.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=28191-943-05212
It probably broke because the two parts were corrosion-welded together. You'll want to hit it with Liquid Wrench type stuff and then heat it to aid penetration before you try to get it out.
If using a regular propane torch would be a problem, this little BernzOmatic lighter might do the trick. It is small, but puts out a blue flame like its bigger cousins, only about 3/16" wide and 1/2" long.
http://bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/landing/index.jhtml;jsessionid=XKDRJ3FDHM4ACCQIUB2CF3QKBCQGIJCK
I had to deal with that exact situation. What found is that the inside pipe wrench and the screw extractor types ( even an extreme short one for 1/2" pipe) could not go deep enough to grab the broken threads, They kept bottoming out in the back of the drop eared 90.
The shower arm came through the tile of course, so I attacked it from the back side which thankfully was a laundry room so sheetrock repair was more friendly.
Good luck
If you can't find a snub-nosed screw extractor in that size, or cut off a standard one so it won't bottom out in the L, you are going to have to do it the old-fashioned way.
First drill out as much of the busted off nipple as you can without hitting the threads. Then Zen yourself into a nice, calm state of mind and get out a cold chisel and a hammer....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
apply heat.... heat gun not flame...
internal nipple wrench...
tighten a fuzz first...
unscrew the offending little gasper and go back to work...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If the methods already mentioned do not work for you, a 100% sure way is to drill, then run your tap sizing reamer in, then use your 1/2 NPT tap to lean out what is left.
Probably dont have those if you needed to ask about easy-outs or inside pipe wrench set though.
HF has inside wrenches for under $2 when on sale. Have found if there is extensive galvanic corrosion the drill/ream/tap method is the only thing that does not damage the female thread side (or break off a corroded pipe inside the wall - not fun that <G>).