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I want to install a plank floor over concrete slab in my basement family room. I was thinking I would cover the slab with a 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier and nail 2×4 sleepers (flat) 16″ o.c. over the poly. I would then screw 1×10 T&G, yellow pine plank to the sleepers, bung the screw holes, sand and finish with several coats of polyurethane. Is this a good plan? Would 15 lb. felt be a better vapor barrier? Should I install 1″ styrofoam insulation between the sleepers? I am shooting for a rustic “English Tavern” look for this room, so the floor doesn’t want to look like a bowling alley. Would it be worth the effort to install a subfloor over the sleepers or is the T&G good enough?
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Dennis - you might try posting this question at http//www.hoskinghardwood.com
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From the Reader,s Digest book "The Family Handyman Helpful Hints"
Use a notched trowel to apply a coat of slightly thinned asphalt mastic. Lay down 6-mil polyethylene sheeting and press with weighted floor roller. Next, embed pressure-treated 2x4 sleepers in row of mastic. Nail 3/4 in. exterior plywood to the sleepers. Then the floor is ready for carpet and pad.
The book doesn't mention using any type of fasteners to attach the stringers. The way treated lumber tends to warp, it seems like fastener would be good insurance. They also don't mention using styrofoam insulation between the stringers. Is there any reason not to? Like possibly allowing for air circulation under the sub-floor.
*Hardwood floor companies around here use vapor barrier and engineered wood planks right on the slab (a type of tightly grained 5 to 7 ply laminate with a wood veneer). This eliminates any transition problems between floors and saves you the time and expense of installing sleepers etc. Athough you will pay more for the engineered flooring. Moisture content of slab should also be determined prior to installation.
*I used the following method adopted from a Dept of Agriculture single family construction manual. First fasten treated 1x2's to the slab using const adheasive and Rawl drve fasteners. I placed 3/4-inch foam between the furrring strips. Put a layer of 6 mil poly down as a vapor barrier, I then screwed down a second layer of 1x2s to the first. This allows a air space to the back of the planks to prevent moisture pproblems. The long-leaf pine ramdom width antique pine floor in my vaccation home bath & sauna have been in great condtion for 5 years installed this way. Jon oLdenburg
*fastening the sleepers to the concrete will not allow the wood to expand and contract freely with change in temperature and humidity. if waterproofing is a concern use bituthane .
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I want to install a plank floor over concrete slab in my basement family room. I was thinking I would cover the slab with a 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier and nail 2x4 sleepers (flat) 16" o.c. over the poly. I would then screw 1x10 T&G, yellow pine plank to the sleepers, bung the screw holes, sand and finish with several coats of polyurethane. Is this a good plan? Would 15 lb. felt be a better vapor barrier? Should I install 1" styrofoam insulation between the sleepers? I am shooting for a rustic "English Tavern" look for this room, so the floor doesn't want to look like a bowling alley. Would it be worth the effort to install a subfloor over the sleepers or is the T&G good enough?