Bummer. I can’t get sag-resistant drywall because there isn’t enough demand in my area. Based on talking to people, I ascribe the reason to nothing more than ignorance of the product. I live in an isolated sparsely populated area called Northern New Jersey. So maybe if I can convince people that they should be using this…
This is 1/2″ interior ceiling panels. It is lighter than ordinary 1/2″ drywall and more sag-resistant than 5/8″ Type X. What’s not to like?
Why not 1/2″ ordinary DW for ceilings? If I put R-38 insulation above the ceiling (note, code is now requiring R-49!), that will be 1.2-2 lbs/sq ft. Ordinary DW is rated for no more than 2.2 lbs/sq ft on 16oc, boy, that insulation had better be spread evenly, there isn’t much room for error. Wanna tape after fastening 12oc?
Wny not 5/8″ Type X? Every carpenter I’ve spoken to has had the same reaction: it’s heavy, and besides the PITA factor of getting it up, they’d be nervous about living underneath it. I’m just telling you what others have told me….
If you’re convinced and order a bundle, let me know who your DW supplier is and maybe I can get some of the remnants.
One negative: This only comes in 4×8 and 4×12 panels.
Despite what it sounds like, I have no affiliation with USG…
Replies
Maybe I live in a cocoon, but I've never, ever heard of 5/8" drywall being an overhead hazard. And a competent hanger will have it up in no time.
On 16" centers or less, it isn't going to sag, unless it's put up before the roof is on and a big rain storm comes through.
I'm not a gypsum board expert, but sag resistent DW is a new one on me....probably costs more....
If I was you, I'd have more questions about those advising me than spending time searching for alternative products that probably aren't necessary.
We used the 1/2" ceiling board in Vegas a lot. Roof trusses out there are almost always 24" o.c., and even 5/8" shows ripples on the ceiling. The 1/2" "CD" board is lighter than 5/8, slightly less expensive, and looks great, even on 24" o.c. trusses.
It's something that many places don't carry- if there's not a lot of new home construction going on (where subs are buying it by the truckload), you probably won't find it.
Bob
Back to my cocoon! :-)
I'm saying that SRDW is unavailable in the *entire North-East*... That is what USG told me.... Time to get the word out....
unavailable in the *entire North-East*
Yeah, but that's because "everybody" knows "they" only use blueboard & plaster in the NE . . . <g>
When I saw the thread title, I thought there was either a picture showing "why not" or some enterprising gypsum wall board company was making greenboard that would span more than 12" in a ceiling application . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I seriously doubt if 5/8" is going to fall down. when we install it 4 screws will hold up an 8 foot sheet. then go ahead and screw it off every 8 inches or so. you could probably walk on it
GLUE! As long as you glue it, 5/8 will never FALL down. I did work for a builder that required 2 layers of 5/8 on all ceilings and walls, the second layer would have the screws removed by the finisher.
It makes for one SOLID wall and no possibility of nail pops.
A ceiling with 24" OC will need 5/8. I saw one with 1/2" AND a stipple texture, it looked like a roller coaster.
Will glue fasten DW to metal studs or furring channels?
What about the noise issue?
My understanding is that 5/8" X is denser than regular 5/8 and will therefore tend to transmit less noise (vibration).
The light weight 1/2" on a ceiling seems like it would not dampen noise as effectively as even regular 1/2".
My interest of this thread is because I'm currently finishing my basement as an entertainment room and noise control is a big consideration.
Dan
Are you installing sound batts? That will make the most difference.
If you want to keep the noise of the entertainment center contained in the basement, Then you need two things from your ceiling board: MASS, and DECOUPLING.
The simplest way I know of to do this is two layers of 5/8" rock hung on resilient channel, taking care not to short-circuit the RC with screws bridging to the joists above. For this to really work well, it is best to eliminate ceiling lights, etc. The ceiling boxes would provide the sound waves a flanking path to bypass your "lid of silence".
Double layering adds 6db to the attenuation of the floating lid, and halves the resonant frequency of the gypsum panel down to the lower limit of human hearing (20Hz). To get another 6db reduction, you would need to go to four layers, which is generally not cost-effective.
If you do something this good, your detailing has to be immaculate to stop all holes and other flanking paths. Doors, for example, should be solid core and fully weatherstripped, ideally one at either end of stairs. Good luck on your project.
Bill
Unfortunately I don't think I have the head room to do RC and 2 layers of 5/8" DW. I will be using sound batts and may even try a rubber membrain type of product (found here on BT) that is supposed to perform pretty well. May even try some paint on deadener for the ductwork.
I know I won't be able to achive complete isolation but I do think I can get the room to be fairly dead. Although my wall framing will be held off the poured concrete walls I will be installing blocks between the framing and the concrete to keep the walls from vibrating.
I've never worked with RC - how far will it drop the ceiling?
Dan
Dan,
The RC is about 3/8" deep when installed. If you have exposed ducts running in the room all bets are off. It is best to box them in if possible. The stuff you paint on would have to be quite thick, or a technology I do not know about (but would like to!)
The walls are way less critical than the ducts and ceiling, but bracing midspan off the concrete will raise their resonant frequency. The big deal with your walls is sound slipping around the ceiling treatment via the walls. Soundproofing is a job custom-made for the truly anal builder. (I hope Prospero doesn't bleep me.) Best of luck.
Bill
No exposed ducts in the room Bill. The trunks that run under the joists - a supply and a return, will be boxed and filled with sound batts, then rocked with 5/8 X. The supplies off of the trunk are up in the joist cavities - which will also be stuffed with sound batts.
Paint on deadener for the duct work is really just that - deadener. Even though I've already had the HVAC who-ah install flexi joints in the supply and return trunks to reduce vibs, the paint/spray on goo is supposed to deaden the duct work even more. So as long as the slop isn't too pricy I'll give it a go. I saved the link to the stuff, as well as the link to the sound attenuation membrane stuff, I just need to find it on my other pc.
Thwacking the wall studs was an eye opener really - those suckers were all over the place - even with the usual blocking between the studs. I've got to believe that the wall assembly would transmit quite a bit of vibration to the joists above when I warm up the bridged amplifiers. Placing blocks between each stud and the wall may not help an awful lot, to be sure, but I'm looking for incremential gains where ever I can find them due to the compromises I must make elsewhere.
Yeah, very anal about some things. What's the tag line in one of the old Chrysler commercials? "If all we strive for is 'good enough', will anything ever be good enough"? Something like that.
Thanks for the help.
Dan
Dan,I used a deadener product some years ago on an acoustic job. It consisted of 1/8" sheets of ashaltic stuff with a sticky side. I used the leftovers on a 24 gauge dust collection piping system, and it helped stop the ringing of the ductwork. A dense mastic would do the same, it seems to me. Similar sheets are used on stainless sinks, and on auto bodies.Bill
Yes you can glue to metal. OSI has a good drywall glue. It is alot easier to get a quart size gun and tubes as the small size will wear out your forearm. I use 1 tube per @ 8 sheets.
It is also a good idea to glue the furring channel to the block wall.
In our area 5/8" gyproc can be hung on 24" oc trusses. If you use 1/2" gyproc the ceiling must be strapped with 1"x4" @ 16" oc. In order to have a continuous VB the exterior walls have a 1"x6" added to their height, the trusses then have a continuous sealed 6mil VB attached, then the ceiling is strapped with 1"x4" after that the interior walls are built.
The drywallers like the strapped ceilings because the 1/2" is a little easier to handle and the vapour barrier is quicker to install rather than room by room and I think a better seal is made.
Also once the ceiling is strapped it can be blown in.
I am curious about pricing, blown in cellulose is $1.30 cdn for R40, gyproc is .04 cdn for loading, .26 cdn for boarding and .47 cdn for taping, taping includes all material except board, round bead is $10.00 per piece extra.
David, just curious how you know the pricing on taping and boarding drywall - contractor or homeowner getting quotes? What province are you in?
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
Tim, I am a contractor and those were the latest prices I have received for residential construction. I live in the Yukon.
Regards
Taylor,
In believing that 5/8 drywall has the propensity to fall down, you are surmising that every new construction home in my area (Cleveland) has had drywall falling down off garage ceilings and crushing brand new cars and killing women and children. This is certainly not the case.
I also have not heard that sagging drywall on insulated ceilings has been a problem either.... at least not a problem so bad that it needed serious fixing.
And the guys who hung my house hung 5/8 just like they hung 1/2".... the 2 young kids on the crew just working away and jamming to mariachi (sp?) music. And with smiles on their faces.
Rob Kress
Just out of curiosity, doesn't anyone responding here have a building code? Where I live (St. Louis area), 5/8 is REQUIRED on ceilings because of fire code.
In NC we are not required to use 5/8" on ceilings. Matt
I'm not endorsing that POV re 5/8", just reporting on what the consensus is among those I've spoken with... And they have never heard of the sag-resistant DW and don't know why one would want it.... Well, I look at the numbers for 1/2" w/insulation and they make me nervous.... But I also look at the weight of 5/8" and start to wonder if I should replace my existing 25ga steel stud ceiling with 20ga... I do appreciate the assurance re 5/8" BTW....
I'm sorry Taylor, I didn't mean to sound rude. Just trying to say "naw, don't worry about that."
Good luck
Rob Kress
Not sure where in Northern NJ you are, but my old drywaller dealt with Jersey Gypsum in Blairstown. They seemed to have most everything. Another good supplier if you're close to I-78 is Morris Black in Allentown, PA.
Good luck,
Andy
Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
Andy, funny you should mention JG in Blairstown, they are the only place I could find with SRDW. He has *one guy* who uses the stuff. Trouble is, I'm too far away for him to deliver. If I go out there with a pickup, it'd be in little pieces (propped up on the back) by the time I got home; he only has 4x12. JG in Kearny told me it was discontinued; USG said, naw, we just don't have any demand in the NE.
More generally, I'm really appalled at the lack of choice in this, the most densely populated part of the country. No KD lumber beyond 2x4, no SRDW, no DW shims, .... You might think population brings competition brings diversity, instead nothing gets stocked unless it moves fast....
*Sigh.*
Things haven't changed, then. I left Warren County 8 years ago to move to CT. The variety of available materials here, in a not very different demographic area, is wonderful.
AndyArguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
Ever hear of strapping? I know, you think us New England guys are nuts.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match