Folks,
Considering a new laser to replace the one that got stolen. Due Diligance shows a lot of positive comments on the PLS 2.
Bit concerned that the accuracy is 1/8 in 30. Is this an issue in use? 1/4 in 100 would be nicer.
?? Has anyone checked to see if the lines really are 90 dgs apart?
?? What favorite uses or tricks can you make it perform? Can you lock the beam and use for tile layout? Square up a foundation?
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
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Replies
I bought the David White brand from Lowes. Works well enough for me. Working in rooms that are at most 20x20 feet, the accuracy is not a problem, although the one time I checked w against a Stabile bubble level it was right on. The beam gets a bit dim in bright light. Mine has four settings: horizontal, vertical, both, and both locked so you can aim at the floor or put a tilted line on the wall.
Ed H
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I have the PLS5... invaluable and easily accurate enough for fine work. Not sure what the PLS2 is, but don't buy one that won't shoot a plumb line at the ceiling. Also, plan on getting a tripod.
I would recommend a 5-beam laser for squaring a foundation or laying out a tile floor because the downward-directed beam gets you an accurater location on the floor. I have both a 5-beam and a PLS2, and find they each have their own strengths. My PLS2 is accurate within detectable limits. My Robo 5-beam is off about 1/4" over 40 feet on one side and accurate in all the other directions. It is adjustable in the field except for this one dimension. I simply compensate for the difference and am able to get accurate results.
Which one gets more use - 2 or 5?The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
When laying out foundations, the 5 is definitely the one to use. It is also great for transfering points between floor and ceiling. For interior work, the 2 is very handy, such as for tiling.
There is no laser that is as quick or accurate as my Stabila Plate Level for plumbing up walls. You just can't get a nine-foot wall accurately plumb with a four-foot level, and a laser is tricky to get into a corner. The 2 is a good substitute for plumbing walls because you can keep it on your belt and just set it on the floor in front of the wall you wat to verify. The trick is to get the beam to hit the wall in a perpendicular fashion.
A line-generating laser such as the 2 is tricky in some cases as you must be aware that the line thickness changes as the distance from the laser changes. I overcome this by placing the device equidistant from the two ends of the line I will be using. Pick a reference such as the center of the line.
If you are using a line laser for, say, adjusting the height of the top of a set of forms, be aware that the varying curvature on the edge of your lumber must be taken into account.
Lasers are a real aid, but they all have their limitations. If you learn their operating characteristics, they are worth the money.
I'll send some pics in a few minutes. Gotta walk the dog right now.
Here are some pics of a laser reflector I made. I have four of these. They are 5 1/2" wide at the base and are used primarily for laying out a foundation for mudsills, especially complex foundationswith ten or more corners.
We all have a few extra string levels around. glue one to the back of the reflector to make sure the laser dot on the front transfers down perfectly on the foundation in case roughness causes the board to be unlevel.
You can not see the laser dot because of my camera flash, but it is centered over the vertical line. Where the vertical line intersects the foundation is where I would put my mark for my chalk line. As the foundation gets up to, say 80 feet long, as in a duplex, the dot gets to be about 3/4" in diameter, but it is still accurate if you use the center of the dot. In brighter light, you may need your red glasses. It is always possible to orient the measurements so that the reflector is in shadow on a sunny day. If it is too difficult, you can have a helper hold up his hand so that the sunlight landing on the reflector is interrupted. When working alone, I stand up a piece of 2X6 or a scrap of plywood to keep the reflector in a shadow.
got the PLS 2 and PLS 5 ...
I'd not use the 2 for foundations ...
unless if was a quick corner check ....
my cross hairs are a pretty good 90.
I've checked layouts a coupla times when I first got it.
U can do self level horizontal
self lever vertical
self level both horiz and vert
and ... lock in cross hairs at a 90 and pick the thing up .. thurn it upside down and shine the cross hairs at the floor.
The PLS 2 gets used way more ... but I do way more trim and finish work.
great for setting cabs .... running bulkheads ... that's probably where I need my tightest tolerances .... checked all the cab runs I did when I first got it against my Stabila's .... dead nuts on.
great for setting prehung doors .... don't need that 7' level anymore as a jamb straight edge .... plus ... with paneled doors ... there's your plumb and level.
Nice to have for in-home estimating too ... quick checks of plumb/level/square ...
the 5 get's pulled out for bigger stuff .... framing/foundations ... and ... for ceiling layouts that are easier done on the floor and transfered.
Have also checked both lazers against themselves ... then verified with the stabila's and diagonals with tapes ...
so either all my stuff is on target ... or it's all crooked by the same amount?
Toolfetch.com had the best prices when I bought mine ... just looked ... right now it's $245.
Big Cal talked me into my PLS2 ... have liked it ever since.
something about an exterior decoder ring available now too ... don't have that.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Jeff - @@ great for setting prehung doors .... don't need that 7' level anymore as a jamb straight edge .... plus ... with paneled doors ... there's your plumb and level.I'm trying to visualize this. Is the laser on the floor or on a tripod?
(Just replaced a stolen Jamber set from Stabila). Assume on panel doors you align the crossed beams on style/rail intersection and shim away. Am I anywhere near close on this technique?@@@I'll go for the PLS 2. Thanks to all for their insights.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
"Assume on panel doors you align the crossed beams on style/rail intersection and shim away."
That's it exactly. I set it on what ever ... no tripod yet.
Have my little 3 ft step ladder that's always handy.
vanities work great in a bath ... just what ever is handy ...
after U get the door hinges shimmed right ... aim it so the plumb line is on one edge of the jamb ... shim that perfectly straight ... then twist is ever so gently to the other jamb ... straighten that top to bottom ... and away ya go.
for the first coupla .... again I just had to check it .... I got those legs as straight with the lazer line as I did with the 7' stabila.
that's one thing thatd rimes me nuts ... a jamb that's bow in or out ... and even setting it against the door reveal itself ... I always got better and quicker results using the Stabila.
Jeff
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA