Plumbing fixuture nightmare (almost)
Loser alert! Well, after a half-dozen trips to HD and OSH over the weekend, plus today a plumbing wholesaler and plumbing showroom, I am stymied. I’ve got a clawfoot tub that I am trying to get water to the fixture. Part of the problem is that I’m not using the water lines in the traditional sense; the type that come out of the floor, rigid compression fittings. What I did, cuz the tub fits in just the right amount of space (about 3″ on each end of the tub), was poke out from the wall my copper pipe and attach valves.
No biggie I would have thought. But what I can’t seem to do is make the transition from the fixture which has a 3/4″ threaded end to the typical 1/2″ threaded end on the valve(s). A toilet stainless steel braided line “almost” fits, but is just a hair too small. Another alternative was what the plumbing wholesaler proposed; using hotwater water lines. This is nice cuz it will fit on the fixture, but then I have to reduce the other end to a 1/2″ fip on the valve. I guess that wouldn’t be too much work, but the problem is 1) the line is bright copper where this would be somewhat exposed in the bathroom, and 2) I can’t bend the line to the angle I want cus there’s not enough room between the tub and the wall.
I guess my question is; can I get a specialty water line made which would fit on the 3/4″ fixture end and have a 1/2″ fip on the other end? I take it these steel braided lines have factory pressed on ends. I have done a search online but to no avail yet.
I can’t believe how much time I’ve wasted trying to make something work; late Saturday night is was using PVC elbows and transitions, but got leakers when I tighten down the 3/4″ x 3/4″ 90 degree elbow onto the fixture threads. Part of the problem is that this is a fixture and while I have tightened down some fittings to try to reduce to 1/2″, I can’t really get, or don’t want to get a good grip on the exposed chrome finish.
I guess what I’m looking for is a 1/2″ x 3/4″ water line if there is such an animal out there?
Replies
You might check with a hydraulic service company.
They make up all kind of hose all the time. I don't know if they have the fitting or not, but I think that they do have the SS braided hose.
Bill, excellent suggestion; I'll try to track down in this area.
hose supply is best,but you might find a auto parts store close that makes up lines. it would behell for stout water line. larry
I already went that route; the threads are different on the fixture and hose line/fitting--and the rubber washer didn't seem to make up the difference between the course and fine thread difference...unless I'm missing something here?
The threads on the tub faucet are not tapered pipe thread, therefore standard pipe fittings will be useless.
The standard set-up on a clawtub uses a special set of cone ended supplies with a half union style nut to compres the cone into the fixture.
You might consider checking the OD on the special supplies to see if a compression fitting will work,
Or if the claw tub supplies are chromed brass consider soldered chrome fittings to adapt the flex supplies. If slightly off in size consider swedging to achieve a useable solder joint.
If this appears to be doable then cut the special supplies short (up close to the fixture and proceed with this Rube Goldberg fix!
Nothing like launching the canoe into the rapids, and looking back to see the the paddle lying on the shore! :>)
Good luck.....Iron Helix
<<If slightly off in size consider swedging to achieve a useable solder joint.>>Help me out here..I have heard that term before but forthelife of me I can't picture the process. do ya modify the size somehow?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
A swedge is a blunt ended steel punch (8" long ) that begins small (1/4" ID Tubing size) then about every 1/2" inch increment along its length it graduates to the next larger size if pipe OD & ID.
So lets take a copper pipe burst by freezing....cut out the rupture, insert the swedge and drive it till you expand the copper ID to the OD of the non frozen new repair piece.
Clean, flux, & solder...........done with out having to keep cutting back along the line to a normal diameter.
Also commonly used on refrigeration tubing to eliminate the use of couplings in the freon lines.
Soft roll copper is the most swedge-able!
The down side:
...........older and more "brittle" copper pipe often splits instead of swedging.
...........K,L,& M "rigid" copper are often not swedge friendly.
...........brass is often contrary to swedging and splits/fractures.
If the clawfoot tub risers were chrome plated ductile brass or copper they might be swedge-able, thus able to accept a sweated chrome adapter for the s/s braided supply to attach to. Or possible a chromed compression fitting would be a transition between the two different systems.
I have one....guess I could photo same and send along if needed.
A HVAC supply house usually carries them.
Hope this helps?
.....................Iron Helix
Wow!...I actually have one!..I thought it was a tapered drift punch ( at least that is what I use it for) for alignung holes in steel assemblies. Thank you, that is such a cool idea.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Iron, with my fixture came those "half union style nuts." And by looking on the website where I got the fixture, I kinda understand what you are mentioning from the water line kits.
Duh!!! I guess this should get me there: http://www.vintagetub.com/asp/product_detail.asp?item_no=ecsoslcp
What I wasn't sure about was making the connection on the valve end, and yep, it's a compression fitting, so I should be able to just cut and put on my valve according to customer service. And the lines are $46 for the pair. What a friggin' idiot; I thought no biggie, I would just buy a couple flex water supply lines and dust my hands off and be done with it. Nah, I've already spent that much and more on materials and time trying to do this thing already.
I hate plumbing!!! And plumbing hates me; of all the subs I worked with, my plumbing contractors (yeah there were two) were the only ones I had problems with. I pretty much (with some help) wired my whole house and a host of other stuff, but all the profanity that came out of my mouth, redness in the face, throwing of tools, and other trantrums came out of what plumbing I did have to do; repairing a 1 1/2" gas line (the second contractor had a bad joint), the finish plumbing, tie-in to the city 6" clay line over six feet underground, et al. I am so paranoid about leakers when sweating copper joints, I have gotta have the most ugly looking sweated joints in the City.
I did check into Bill's suggestion about the hydraulic thing; ding, ding, ding, they raised the issue of their lines being used for "drinking" water. I didn't even think of that (not that I would have worried about it too much), even though it's for a tub.
Anyway, thanks for all the help!