I am doing some research into starting a small woodworking shop in my garage as a hobby…
One point of confusion for me is which is more versatile, a plunge router or a fixed one on a table?
Can a plunge router be used in a table?
Any opinions are welcome…
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Replies
Take a look at units with different base options. I have a PC 694VK with a standard flat base and a plunge base. I probably use the fixed base 98% of the time, but the few times that I've used the plunge base it worked just fine.
With many routers you can get a both bases. I have the Porter Cable kit, which I use the plunge base in my rounter table. I could use the fixed base as well, but it's not as easy to fine adjust. You could also get a second motor on ebay or something, saves a lot of switching back and forth.
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Plunge router works well in a table because the adjustable plunge return stop can be converted to a depth adjuster that allows fine depth adjustment. If you are only going to buy one router, it should be that type since it does everything a fixed base router does and more.
An alternative is to buy one of the kits that has both fixed and plunge bases. The fixed base can be mounted to the table and the plunge base used for freehand work. The motor unit is easily swapped between the bases as required.
Good answer. I sold my old craftsman fixed based for a palm router. It is one of my favorite tools, but I just don't do enough fine woodworking. What kind of work will you be doing with it?
I do a fair amount of loose tenon work so plunge is critical for me for freehand work. A router in a table is also critical for a lot of edge detailing work that just can't safely or easily be done freehand.I burned up a half dozen Craftsman units and a couple of Black and Deckers before I started buying good routers. I now have a 3 hp Makita plunge router on my table and both 3 hp and 1 1/4 hp VS Elu plunge routers for freehand and template bushings and edge guides for both. I also have a fixed base Rockwell (now PC) dedicated to a dovetail jig and a Makita palm router for light work. More uses for routers start becoming apparent once you have access to them.
Im planning on slowly getting into woodworking, specifically building small furniture like coffee tables, bookshelves.. etc..Ive decided to upgrade my budget on the table saw, but I was hoping to get away with a less expensive router which i already purchased at 50% off... which is a 1.75 HP plunge router made by mastercraft(canadian version similar to craftsman).Ive seen some plans online to build an add on to a table saw for a router and I was hoping to go that route, BUT I have 90 days to return it and dont plan on using it until I have everything I need and have done my homework.Thanks for the great replies, youve given me some food for thought.
At that price and with light duty, the Mastercraft will get you through a couple of years while you learn more about what you want from a router. Most of my initial tool purchases were made on that basis and I replaced them as required with much higher quality tools specifically picked to match my needs as I discovered what those were.I liked Craftsman because of their warranty. I had three free replacements for a router that I bought at half price in one of their frequent sales before they changed policy to stopping at a single replacement.
I don't know much about Craftsman's new routers, but the one I sold was at least 10 yrs. old and quite the powerhouse. My boss still uses it.
I'm not familiar with the newer ones either. All mine were more than ten years ago. Seems to me the more recent ones were rebranded Ryobi but I don't know if that is still the case.I did buy a 19.2V Craftsman cordless drill about three years back when I was able to buy the two battery kit for less than the cost of one replacement 14.4V DW battery. Broke in about 6 months but they gave me another on warranty. It's still working but gets very little use as it was replaced by a really nice Metabo 18V Lithium. The Craftsman is about 50% bigger and 50% heavier.
In my table I use the standard base. Both the PC and the Craftsman have an easy to adjust the height control on them.
I only use the plunge action base when cutting for hinges on doors.
Many makers of routers and you should take a look at how they "work" the fine adjustment.
take a carefull look at a store where you can put your hands on them to find out, or read the specs carefully. At one time, the plunge mechanism on some of them only controlled depth when in the upright position. Turned over, they would be able to fall back away from the work. Some have fixed this. I don't know which ones haven't. Also, some only claim to be a plunge type. I have a Ryobi big plunge that works fine at this, but I also have a B&D that has such a rinky dink plunge control that it is laughable. All of my PC and Makita routers are fixed base units, so I can't say on them, but it is generally hard to go wrong with a PC or bosch router.
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You could either do what I've done, which is have 7 routers so I don't have to chose the "right" one; or get one of the 2 base kits.
Either Porter-Cable or Bosch would be good choices. Something in the 2 to 2-1/4 HP rangs is a good start.
And you can use a plunge in a router table. But like Piffin said, you have to check to see if the plunge mechanism will work that way.
The table mounted router is one of the most used tools in my serious hobbyist shop. The key issues are bit changing, fine adjustments and variable speed (mottly wood and big bits). As other folks said....get a combo if you can shell it out now. I have been very happy with Bosch and Hitachi. If you use the table often and rebit then the issues above are paramount (especially if your knees are older!) to accomplish quickly from above. I can't afford to buy the fancy Jessum lifters etc so have to have some other way to adjust the bit. I see that there is a Bosch base for the 1617 (?)EVS (2 1/4 hp with wood knob handles...my favorite router) on the web that allows you to fine adjust bit height from above with an allen wrench or some such. then you can leave that base attached and drop the motor to plunk into the plunge or regular base. I think that is what I am going to do for my new table since I sold my shop before moving south. Good luck and the best of the new year!
Steve
Yes, a plunge router can be used in a table. I have my Hitachi M12V (big plunge router) mounted in mine.
Perhaps the more important factor would be whether or not the router you choose can be raised and lowered easily while in a table. (Mine cannot.)
And the absolute best one would also allow bit changes without removing the router from the table.
I've got both bases and honestly i've never used the plunge base.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
If you're just going to use the router for working the edges (rounding, chamfer, rabbet) a standard base will be fine. A D-handle with on-off trigger is a very handy option.
If you want to make large mortises, route in the middle of a larger piece using guides or pattern cutting or dadoes/grooves you can't do with your TS, get a plunge.
Having both makes the issue moot.
As for brands, it's hard to beat a Bosch with Porter Cable close behind IMHO. Haven't looked at much other than those 2 but if your budget allows, be sure to get 1/2" collet which'll also handle a 1/4"
If you are going to be doing joinery that's really picky about height, like a miter-lock, you need to be absolutely sure that the router stays exactly where you set it. The slightest movement can really mess you up. Also, getting it dailed in can be challenging - you need to be able to make very small changes to router height, sometimes 5 or 10 thousandths of an inch can make a real differenct.. Not all plunge mechanisms provide that level or stability or accuracy in a bench setup.
With the router you plan to start out / learn with I'd highly recommend the fixed base. Much better chance of getting repeatable results.