Pocket door at junction of 2 walls…
FrankFromNC
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Greetings to all!
Let’s say you have two 2×4 studded walls that are to meet in a “T”. Let’s say wall “A” is to be built first, and then wall “B” is built to meet wall A. As I’ve been taught, wall A must be built with a channel, to which the end stud of wall B will be nailed.
But what if we want wall A to contain a pocket door. If we build wall A with a channel then it’s going to prohibit proper movement of the pocket door.
So how would you fasten wall B to wall A?
Just so I don’t seem clueless, my *guess* would be to fasten wall B to what you have available – namely wall A’s top/bottom plates, the pocket door’s header, and (maybe?) build a channel that functions as a cripple above the pocket door’s header (?).
Thanks!
Frank
Replies
I want to know if the door closes towards the intersection, or opens towards it. If the former, then the channel as you call it (I presume you mean some backing to hang the d/wall on) needn't be req'd where there is an opening. If the latter, then presumably the framework for the pocket door will suffice.
If the wall intersects towards the middle of the door enclosure, then ditto re framework.
Or am I more confused than this..?
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Piko,
Thank you for your time.
>> I want to know if the door closes towards the intersection, or opens towards it <<
I think you would say that the door opens toward the intersection. As the door is opened (and slides into it's pocket) the door will pass by the line of intersecion of the 2 walls. The intersection of the two walls lies adjacent to the door's pocket.
>> ...the channel as you call it (I presume you mean some backing to hang the d/wall on) ... <<
That's right. As I've been taught, I would ordinarily create a "C" shape, using 3 2x4 studs, which would be a part of wall A. Wall B's end stud would then be fastened to the middle of the back of the "C" - with enough surface remaining on either side to fasten drywall at the corners.
Sorry about the wordiness.
Frank
Rather than a channel we sometimes use 1x6 att'd to the back of the first stud on the intersecting wall - especially if there is an exterior wall. (This eliminates a pocket w/out insulation). I know that's not the case here, I just offer it for your assessment. In the particular case you are describing I think you'll find that the pocket door framing (jambset) - whether a kit or a ready-made - will provide the support you require. All frames I've installed have 1x4 crosswise at 16" o/c. This'll support the drywall. Just a word from experience - don't use nails that are too long or they will go into the space for the door. Or, worse, the door itself.All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
So long as they aren't load-bearing walls it doesn't matter much -- most of the conventional framing in corners is there simply to allow fastening the drywall. You do need some scheme to allow fastening the drywall in the corner (like two pieces of 1x joined in an L), but otherwise the walls don't need to be joined.
happy?
Just had this pop up on a house I recently completed: On the wall that bangs into wall w/ pocket door, I tried to find a really straight end stud, (both ways). Then, I made a "T" out of that, with another straight stud so it would hold straight both ways. Ripped a piece of 3/4 ply and screwed from "inside" of pocket door side so it hung past the end stud 1-1/2 on each side same as a partition block would.
Bing
Bing,
Thanks for your reply!
Your plan seems very clear to me. The plywood and the "leg" of the "T" are attached to opposite sides of the "top" of the "T".
In the diagram below, "P" stands for the plywood, "T" stands for the stud forming the "top" of the "T", "L" stands for the stud forming the "leg" of the "T".
PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL LLLLLLLL
If that's it then it sounds good to me.
Frank
The header needs to run thru
The pocket is formed with 3/4" nmaterial. You simply use 3/4" ply to back up the intersection instead of a 2x8 or 2x6
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If the door is in wall A Have it open away from wall B.
We have had great success building an actual pocket out of plywood for pocket door applications rather than using the cheap rails that come with kit. You build your door opening to accomodate the pocket( allowing for trim etc) and then the pocket unit fits into the opening is leveled and screwed off. THe intersecting wall could then be screwed into the plywood pocket. You have blocking for drywall on all sides and a sturdy pocket door as well. Cut access holes in the plywood pocket so you can mount your hardware.
If anyone is interested in what our system looks like I could post pictures
I would like to see some pics.
I have been framing pocket door walls using the heavier duty commercial Johnson kits, and building the wallframe from 5" studs ripped from good 2x6 stock. We allow width for a 2x4 stud at the pocket end, install the Johson kit, and then sheet the pocket with fresh flat sheets of 3/4" CDX.
That gives us a total wall thickness either side of the pocket equal to the CDX thickness plus the depth of the steelbacked Johnson frame studs. Plenty for base trim fastener purchase without the usual fear of nail ends going into the door pocket.
We have learned that it is best to do all this after the roof is on and the building is dried in. Otherwise, wet weather can affect the CDX and start bowing some things.
In the situation you describe, you will be framing wall "A" with a a RO to accommodate the pocket door frame including latch-side jamb(2x door width plus 2"), so you will have a nice fat header plus the overlapping cap plate to secure the two walls together at the top. At the bottom, you will be nailing or shooting wall "B"s sill plate to the floor.
The pocket door has only flimsy 5/32 plywood at front and back to nail, screw or shoot it to the floor, so you can nail the pocket door's 1x4 horizontal members to the end stud of wall "B" with 8d commons from inside the pocket for additional stability. Slats of the pocket and the end stud of wall "B" give all the drywall support you need, but use short-enough drywall screws not to emerge from the inside of those 3/4" thick slats.
By the way, if there must be a light switch in the pocket door wall, you can use a plastic shallow box (they are roomier inside than the metal ones) mounted with its back just flush with the inside of the 1x4 slats and run your Romex along the underside of a slat to the back of the pocket and then up into the ceiling. I did that last week with a Leviton triple rocker switch, but room only for 4 wires; hot and 3 switched legs going to a J-box on one of the 3 devices.
BruceT
Frank,
"As I've been taught, wall A must be built with a channel, to which the end stud of wall B will be nailed"
The "Channel" part of that is wrong. What you must have is a method of attaching the A wall DW in the corner. The channel was used because it is most convenient to use studs since they are just laying around and when you're a framer all solutions involve studs.
You can even pre-DW the A wall at the intersection before framing the B wall running the DW across the gap.
I would frame the pocket as if there was no B wall. That will provide plenty of DW nailing. Spike B to A at the header, or lap the top plate. Or both. I think, that in terms of material shrinkage it is preferably to just lap the top plates and not nail the DW to the header.
SamT
Thanks to EVERYONE for your generous help and suggestions! You've been most helpful.
Frank