looking for good sturdy pocket door hardware and the best technique to build one. New house will have several.
Thanks,
WJM
looking for good sturdy pocket door hardware and the best technique to build one. New house will have several.
Thanks,
WJM
A standardized approach, quick-to-install hardware, and a simplified design make building custom casework cost-effective.
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Replies
Johnson, instructions included.
I've used both Johnson and Stanley. Each very much the same, but I like the Stanley better. Good thing to make sure of is that the door isn't warped. Really helps with install. Also, you have to adjust the door height before you do the finish trim. Once you trim, you will not be able to do it. Find out finish floor height and go from there. Any other questions, drop me an E-mail. I've done about two dozen of them.
I have found that the essence of a sliding door is the roller and track system. The pocket slider kit is not really necessary. Using a good hardware system which lasts forever is the key. I try to spec a very expensive kit with rollers and track from Hafele. They are a German firm with offices in the States. I'm from Gloucester Mass. so I go through their office in N. Carolina[800-672-4853].
The trim issue is eased by the removeable feature of the door and roller connection.
A pocket can be constructed by using a 3/4" ply wall and attach the finish drywall using 1" DW screws. The space for the door is 2" which is plenty for a 2x4 partitian.
Good advice! Also, the advantage of the 3/4 plywood pocket is that it provides a solid backer for hanging stuff on the wall without resorting to drywall hangars with long screws that so often get driven right into the doors.
Regarding pocket door installations - I've done about six or seven of them using the Johnson kits and individual components. No problems. Just a few suggestions to add to what everybody's said:
Take your time and puzzle everything out until it makes sense. It is a lot faster to go slow.
Use trim screws to hold the trim so that somebody years down the road can fix any thing that wears out.
Mark the pocket openings after framing and before the electricians and drywall hangers start, and then check to make sure no nails or screws (or wires!) are protruding into the pocket when they're done.
Vacuum and clean out the overhead tracks to get rid of all drywall dust, metal shavings and crud before putting in the rollers and hanging the doors.
You'll like the results,
D&L
On a long-ago thread on the old board, someone recommended a pocket door framing method that we used- pictures attached.
...get an up-north attitude...