Anyone have any prefferences in brands for Pocket Door hardware?
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we use Lawrence.. trolley hangers. the doors hang from the track..
we throw the studs away that come with the kit
the only pocket door we build will be in a 2x6 wall so we can use flat 2x for our pocket studs
Thanks for the extemely quick response.
I will do a search for Lawence and see if they are available around here.
This will be in a six inch wall. You use regulars studs? I was thinking I wouldn't have to worry about any bowing if I went with steel.
steel ? as in steel studs ? most of their strength is in the 3.5" direction.. the 1.25" direction is pretty whippy
we frame our pocket with flat 2x4 wood studs.. kd.. we use a plywood shoe and plateMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I was thinking steel studs back to back to make a box - probably overkill - was just a thought
Think I will do fine with 2x4s on the flat
Thanks again
Mike, I will be building a pocket door myself very shortly. Local Lumber yard suggested 2x6 wall as well. The plyood shoe and plate, is this the full 5 1/2" width or just 1 1/2" ?
Thanks, Scott
the full width of the framing ( 1 1/2 + POCKET + 1 1/2 )...
i think this is 5 1/2"... but make sure .. see what your hardware wants for their pocket widthMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
That's great. Thanks Mike.
He reccomended a heavy duty track, must be one of the ones suggested above. I'll check into it further before doing the framing.
Scott
Just a thought. I too build in 2x6 walls with 2x4's on the flat. Been thinking next time, instead of throwing away those steel channels the kit comes with, screw them sideways to the side of the 2x4 on the flat, aught to stiffen it up.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
We have been using ripped microlambs , or timberstrand for our studs. Here in Colorado we have to be concerned about warpage because the humidity is so low. Our 2x6's end up about 5 1/4 wide and when you try to shoot a toenail into something thats acclamated it likes to explode. We also have been routing a partial grove in the bottom of the door and installing a lag in the floor that slides in this grove to act as a guide and stop to get rid of the external guide hardware.We always use a bumper in the pocket to stop the door so if someone slams the door open , because the lag will rip out the bottom of the door on the strike side.
Tim
Johnson 2000 model. Here is the trolley and extruded aluminum track. It'll handle 300 pounds of door. That's probably enough for the door you'll hang on it, plus you hanging on as well.
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Frame the surround with 2x6 studs ripped to 5", then sheet over the pocket, framed with the studs that come in the kit, with 3/4" OSB or plywood.
You'll have a more robust assembly than if using the kit and doing it as a 3-1/2" frame depth.
Thanks Gene, I'll look into those as well
I`ll second Gene and third Mike.
Frame 2 xs on the flat and sheathe with ply (1/2"), prior to drywall.
I`ll be lookin` at those Lawrence as well, but the heavy duty Johnsons have always been more than adequate for me.
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Thanks for the input Jaybird.
These doors actually have to go under a beam in a basement.
Will likely use 2x3's or 2 5/8" steel studs. Got a lot of space to fill.
Thanks again,
Shoe
I don't know whjat is best.
I have always used Johson and never had a problem. must be going on 75 pockets by now.
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lawrence makes light , medium & heavby pocket door hardware..
here's their 200 lb. line..
http://www.lawrencehardware.com/docs/2004Catalog.pdfMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Guess I should not have asked for best - Best bang for the buck is what I was really looking for
Found some track and trollys made by Johnson locally and they seem like they will be fine.
Thanks for the input,
Shoe
Hafele, no need to look any further.
they dont give em away though.
Doug
Thanks, I might look at them in the future. Found Johnson locally, seem like it should work well.
Thanks,
Shoe
Johnson is okay, Grant is better and Hafele is definately the Rolls Royce of sliding hardware but it ain't cheap. I use 1-5/8", 20 Ga. steel studs, sheathed with 1/4" luan on the inside.
Am currently restoring a 1923 Craftsman style bungalow. The new floor plan has a few modest changes which will greatly improve traffic flow and utility of the space. One of these changes involves conversion of a traditional door into a pocket door. The walls and ceilings are plaster and will be repaired as such. The wall in question is 2x4 with plaster both sides. I am trying to determine the best framing approach, so any legitimate suggestions would be welcome. By the way, don't waste time suggesting a 2x6 wall since it isn't an option. Have already been into a couple of the other doorways and the existing framing doesn't include modern day style headers, so I will have to open the wall up quite a bit above the door. Thanks