This seems like a ridiculous question, but here it is.
I built a simple mirror frame out of 5/4 x 3 VG fir, and sprayed it with Moore eggshell latex trim paint, black. Looks pretty good but I haven’t been able to get the perfect surface I’d really like… a little too much splatter out of the gun, a few pieces of dust that got embedded (don’t have a really great place to do this).
Is there any promising way to buff out a surface painted with this type of paint? I’d like to retain some of the sheen but would like to improve the smoothness. Don’t have access to exotic rubbing compounds or anything like that here, just the usual paint store stuff.
Replies
sand it smooth and use gloss or satin paint.
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A trick used by hand painters is to use 100% acrylic paint since it sands better and simply use 400 grit paper to smooth it out inbetween coats. On the final coat a thin coat of clear acrylic provides the desired surface sheen.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Since it's already painted, I offer this for the sake of discussion and hopefully education:Sheen by buffing is the result of establishing progressively finer scratch patterns on a brittle surface. The finer the scratch pattern, the more reflective and 'glossier' the surface becomes. Latex paint - or any paint, for that matter - is really too soft and 'gummy' to be effectively abraded in any kind of controlled manner. Solvent based or water borne lacquer, pigmented if you want color, would have been the material to use if sheen and a 'silky touch' were the goal.
Yeah... I don't have the capability to shoot pigmented lacquer or conversion varnish or anything else that's really right for this. It is what it is!
A man of your accomplishments and stature has no HVLP?
Wanna borrow mine?
I generally eschew any wood finishing responsibilities--in a former life and different place I took all of the cabinetry, furniture, and millwork I made to a spray booth service where they did impeccable work. Once you see that you know that anything less is just a miserable pretense. Unfortunately, there's no such service here.
Besides, I have everything else.
For a simple frame, why not use a spray can?Be sure to check into the diffs between the enamel and the laquer - major diffs between the two as to recoat times, cure times, etc.You should be able to get an excellant finish in no time at all for the cost of a can of paint and a can of clearcoat.Always use clearcoat as it'll dry to the touch in an hour and provide the sheen you are looking for.As above - very clear times for coating with clearcoat - must be done within an hour of the color coat generally, so it's not something you plan on doing the next day.JT
Some clear coats will cause yellowing with time, some immediately. Know any type and brand that is actually clear?
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I do. Hydro-cote Polyshield. Absolutly water clear, even after 10 years. I worked with Michael Dresdner in it's inception. Good Stuff.
Hydro-coat! I've heard of that before.
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Good for Boats and Airplanes. Pricy tho'.
I found it.
POLYSHIELD¯ CLEAR SUPERPOLY The supreme finish of all, short of polyester. A super tough, super hard, non-yellowing polyurethane that is UV stable to meet the most demanding wood surface protection, interior and exterior. Designed for finishing and refinishing of all interior and exterior wood furniture, kitchen cabinets, table tops, counter tops, office furniture, flooring, children's furniture and toys, school desks, pews, bathroom fixtures and above waterline marine woodwork. Highly versatile - apply by brush, spray or wipe on. Self-sealing (for exterior application), or seal with our Clear Wood Sealer (for interior application), if so desired.
Doesnt Minwax make a water poly? thought so but could be wrong.
Doug
They do, I don't care for it at all. Not very good on the hardness scale. IIRC, it is called the "Sward Hardness Scale" and the higher the # the better. With 10 being diamond or glass.
If it never gets hard enough, it can't be buffed out.
They do, I don't care for it at all.
Oh I didnt say that I liked it!
I did a kitchen cab job for a couple down in Austin, the GC who I was working with was to supply material and all related matter.
I tell him that I'm going to need some finish for job, what does he get me - damn Minwax poly because thats all HD/Lowes had! I told him I'd go get my own and he could reimburse me.
Your right, that stuff is not all that hard, actually its down right soft!
Doug
They do and I have used it several times.But it will tinge things yellow. I'm talking crystal clear clear coat
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Sand w/ 400 or 600 ...then 4/0 wool, then pastewax. Buff away.
and a light touch with the sand paper.
Your advice was my first thought this morning, but I figured I been doin this stuff to long for that simple solution to be right.
Gettin old and skeert I'm gettin trapped in the box.
Dave
Eggshell isn't supposed to be smooth. It dries with a slight texture to help hide imperfections.
wright - he used totally wrong paint for sheen no matter how much buffiung he does
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"Eggshell" refers to the sheen level not the texture. Any of the various sheen levels (flat, eggshell, pearl, satin or semigloss) will leave a similar texture depending on the method of application.
Eggshell has more body, and will hold roller stipple marks that other paints won't.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
not true.Eggshel is created to give an eggshell texture exactly as desribed. it is the very last paint one would want to use for a smooth finish or any trim finish
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I've noticed that Benjamin-Moore's eggshell finish paint is thicker than flat or semi-gloss and that it does indeed create slightly more stipple marks when rollered, but I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that it was a result of other performance goals of the paint (slight sheen, good hiding and washability). It never occurred to me that one of the goals may be to ENHANCE stipple marks.
The newest B-M paints (100% acrylic) are thinner than the previous formulas, but I don't know if the eggshell finish still has this characteristic.
In any case, when applied by brush or spray gun, stipple marks are a non-issue. The higher gloss paints (semi-gloss and satin) have better self-leveling properties when applied by brush. I've done very little spraying, but it makes sense that the superior self-leveling would be a better choice.
If there's an auto parts store near you, they usually have wet-dry sandpaper down to 1500 grit. Once you get past that point, rubbing compound and then polishing compound will finish it off. PS—If they don't have polishing compound, so-called cleaning waxes will do the same thing.
Edited 7/6/2007 2:07 pm ET by Disputantum
Sure, but he needs the right paint to start with.
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