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What’s the problem? As a flooring contractor, I have been putting down oil polyurethane, Glitsa Swedish, moisture-curing polyurethane and water based for 20 years. Water based is still in its infancy, and being reformulated every few years. What does that tell you of the previous editions. Alot of unhappy, unknowing consumers. Oil finishes do look more natural, but most people do not want to spend their free time massaging their wood floors. Unless one is an A personality 24/7. Most top coat finishes only last in traffic areas about four to five years, sometimes two to three in kitchens. One can choose to just recoat the kitchen/traffic areas every two to three years, and then the whole floor every four to five to keep the floor looking nice and getting the waterproofing protection. Even an average person with basic hand skills can lightly hand sand the floor with 120 grit, vacumn, and hand brush a coat of oil polyurethane on their floors. You are going to spend alot more time trying to keep that oil finish looking nice ALL the time. One does not have to coat every room at once. Apply it room by room over different days, so furniture moving is easy. It dries overnight, smells like enamel paint, but is as easy to apply as water based wall paint. If this is not your style, fifty cents to a dollar a sq. ft. to a flooring professional. I could choose any type of floor finish for my own floors that I put down in January 2000(2400 sq. ft. Red Oak). My choice, Duraseal Satin Oil Polyurethane. The same product is at Home Depot listed as Minwax Fast-drying Satin Polyurethane. Personally, I have better things to do in my free time than deal with water spotted oil finished floors. But hey, That’s me.
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Hi Greg- Have to agree with you about oil poly, it's the best finish I've used. Another good brand is Zipguard Polyu., but I think it goes back to getting what you pay for.
The stuff @ $10. per gallon doesn/t cut it. It applies hard compared to premium products. Usually has "sanding sealer" listed on it, which means it is a softer finish for the purpose of firstcoat sanding.
Easier for installer, not so good for you, doesn't last.
*Greg - You said "What's the problem?...I have been putting down oil polyurethane, Glitsa Swedish, moisture-curing polyurethane and water based for 20 years."Toxins. That's the problem I see with those finishes. Plus, I'm not sure about the idea of relying on a thin plastic coating over any wood. I am starting to believe more and more in penetrating finishes again.
*Jim, It just requires to much work to maintain oil finishes. Especially since most homeowners now routinely put wood in kitchens, powder baths, and laundry rooms, not to mention entry halls with winter weather. Orginally, when oil finishes were the norm, wood floors only went into rooms where water was not an issue. But for the individual willing to spend the "time", make it so number 1. GW Thanks for the back issue again last month.
*Hi Greg, Your information comes to me at a good time since I just finished laying some 2" wide T&G red oak flooring in my new edition. I'm trying to match the finish that is in the older portion of the house. If I recall the previous finisher (no longer around)stated that he used a Swedish or Danish Oil then topped it with an oil based polyurethane. Does this makes senes? After reading your comment, it may be that he just used the Swedish Polyurethane finish you mentioned. I know it was oil based since it has that yellowing effect which I actually like. Any feedback is appreciated.Thanks,ErniePS. Is there a web site for the Swedish Finish you mentioned. I live in Southern CA and I would like to know where I can get it. Thanks again.
*Ernie, The top coat finish that you are requesting is Glitsa. It does yellow over oak due to the acids in the product. It is not a product that you would want to apply though. It is a laquor/alcohol based finish. Which means that it drys extremely fast. Not many flooring professionals can apply it properly. Use Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane in satin directly to the raw wood after sanding. It is easy to apply and is easy to aquire at Home Depot. It only comes in quarts. Expect 500 ft/gln on 1st coat, 600 ft/gln on second. GW
*Greg,Thanks for the advice. I ended up finding the Glitsa web site and as you pointed out it's for professionals only. If it is as good as they say it is and if it was what had been applied on my floor previously, I might just hire a professional. I'll get some quotes and see what happens. Thanks again.Erie
*Ernie,For what it's worth, I used Glitsa in my last house. I'd done a white oak floor with walnut borders. The Glitsa really showed off the grain. It looked great and held up well, even against the dog's claws. I'll have it done again on my next floor. One warning; Until it cures, the stuff stinks like you wouldn't believe, so you pretty much have to move out while the application is in process.
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What's the problem? As a flooring contractor, I have been putting down oil polyurethane, Glitsa Swedish, moisture-curing polyurethane and water based for 20 years. Water based is still in its infancy, and being reformulated every few years. What does that tell you of the previous editions. Alot of unhappy, unknowing consumers. Oil finishes do look more natural, but most people do not want to spend their free time massaging their wood floors. Unless one is an A personality 24/7. Most top coat finishes only last in traffic areas about four to five years, sometimes two to three in kitchens. One can choose to just recoat the kitchen/traffic areas every two to three years, and then the whole floor every four to five to keep the floor looking nice and getting the waterproofing protection. Even an average person with basic hand skills can lightly hand sand the floor with 120 grit, vacumn, and hand brush a coat of oil polyurethane on their floors. You are going to spend alot more time trying to keep that oil finish looking nice ALL the time. One does not have to coat every room at once. Apply it room by room over different days, so furniture moving is easy. It dries overnight, smells like enamel paint, but is as easy to apply as water based wall paint. If this is not your style, fifty cents to a dollar a sq. ft. to a flooring professional. I could choose any type of floor finish for my own floors that I put down in January 2000(2400 sq. ft. Red Oak). My choice, Duraseal Satin Oil Polyurethane. The same product is at Home Depot listed as Minwax Fast-drying Satin Polyurethane. Personally, I have better things to do in my free time than deal with water spotted oil finished floors. But hey, That's me.