Hi guys.
Ive got an old house with a concrete porch floor slanting back into the house. Ive repaired the damage from that but I need to turn that water back out side . Ive got plenty of room to do it against the door opening and the house but it needs to hit a door opening on the porch center exterior.
With out shooting it I reckon it will be as much as 2 inches against the house and feather to nothing at the door . A lot of the pour will be somewhere in the area of 3/4s.
Will latex and five bag mis course sand do this ? Or what?
Tim
Replies
You can't 'feather to nothing' with concrete and expect it to remain sound. Cracking will occur, and quite likely spalling too. You'll groan at the extra work and the mess, but my advice would be to chip out some of the old slab on the high end near the door. You should be aiming for a minimum average thickness of one inch of new concrete. You didn't mention how large the area was, so I don't know if hand mixing would make sense or better to order a small amount of ready mixed. If you do, be sure to specify small aggregate (often referred to as pea gravel around here), no bigger than 3/8" minus. Larger aggregate particles will drag on the old slab below and make it difficult to finish.
Hope this doesn't ruin your weekend!
"Hope this doesn't ruin your weekend!"
I guess thats one of the only things DW appreciates about me . I rarely get shook up. A problem is just another problem to work on.
Ive got this same thread running in the tile forum . So lets discuss the diferences.
I know what you are saying but I was just checking . Some tile underlayment material will go to nothing and was wondering if I could mix a sand mix for the shallows.
Looks like I need to take some shots.
Tim
Tile takes the wear and exposure elements out of the equation. Obviously, exposed concrete is open to it all. Chances are that cracks do occur in cementitious tile substrates, but they are not seen, and the tile and mastic hold everything together anyway.Lignum est bonum.