Hi all,
WoodBeaver is looking for input about the Porter Cable Hinge Jig system.
Does anyone here have one or used one?? I have a big house to trim out (7000 sq’)and I have 46 doors to hang. Is this tool as good as it seems to be? I think that I think that I will buy one I just need to know what anyone else thinks.
I used to work with a German fellow who told me, “If you see a tool that you like, buy it, it is handy to have even if you never use it!” I have lived by this rule and it has helped me out of a few pinches!! Mostly with the Gov’t at tax time!!!! LOL
Greatly appreciate your input.
WoodBeaver
Replies
This tool is a workhorse. Don't have one myself, but used my ex-partner's (best kind) many times. I would buy a new one for 46 doors, and if I had no use thereafter, sell it. But I'm betting after all those doors you won't part with it. They're well-made and idiot-proof unless the user is a total dolt. Just take it easy with the router so the guide doesn't climb out of its track; you'll end up with a permanent divot in your guide that'll reappear on every door you do from then on.
BEMW
The hinge jig was purchased this very morning and I am now looking at it. Heavy steel case that it comes in. Should stand up to the test of time. It came with the collar, lock nut, and bit. Doesn't get any easier so far. It cost me $400 canadian. Reasonable? Haven't seen them anywhere else to compare pricing.
I will be the only guy using it and taking care of it. What size of router did you use with this system. I have the PC 7/8 hp and the 3 1/4 hp routers. I was thinking of the little guy. That has been a great machine time and time again. Your thoughts?
I think that I will keep it when I am finished just becuase I am starting to do more and more doors all the time. I have already purchased the mortise lock cutter. BIG $$$$. I just hope that I like it!!
Thanks for the input and any other hints would be great!!
WoodBeaver
If you don't mind me asking, what did the mortiser set you back ?
All you really need is a little 1/4" router to do the hinge mortises and the lock-face mortises (use the #517 template for that). I'm told the best router bits for this job come from Bosch and that's it's better to use the HHS bits rather than the carbide. .
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phil,
why hhs opposed to carbide?
Well, actually it depends, if you're cutting a radiused mortise (there are hinges with radiused corners), then you'd use a mandrel and a solid carbide cutter. Same as you'd use for the lock mortiser.
But if you're cutting a mortise for a square-cornered hinge, as well as for cutting lock face and striker-plate mortises, the Bosch 1/2" HSS mortising bit cuts a much crisper mortise (as do steel chissels and plane irons - steel gives a much better cut). You'd have to use a carbide spiral bit to match the sharp edges with no tear-out (and have you priced a 1/2" carbide spiral lately - to cut a mortise about 1/8" deep in fairly softwood ?). They stay sharp for a surprising number of mortises, can be honed several times with a slip before it needs replacing, and costs so much less than the carbide that there's no economy in buying the carbide. .
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phil,
Thanks, I don't have to cut many hinge mortises but just wanted the info for personal knowledge, especially after everyone tries to sell carbide, but that's marketing for you...
i had a big door motising job a few years (about 40) with 3 4x4 hinges each
i just made a jig to do all 3 at once using makita laminate trimmer with a 3/8 carbide bit. worked great!
You can buy hinges with a ¼" radius, thats why a ½" bit will save you some chisel time and an excellent fit if jigged right.( your logo here) Turtleneck
I have used one of those corner chisels on hinges, they work good, too, They are worth the 20 bucks to save the hassle and aggervation
Phil,
Motiser set me back $2300 tax in. I got it in Toronto too. Are you in Unionville? I'm out of Newmarket. Small world. The tool show is on at the end of this month at the exhibition grounds. Feb 28 March 1&2. Great show for tools and GREAT DEALS!!!! If you need tools go with a pocket full of cash and you'll get some good ones!
The 7/8 hp PC router is a small 1/4" router.
Thanks for the reply
WoodBeaver
I'm not so sure I'm going this year. I think I only missed one year since the show started, but that was when it was out at the International Centre in Malton - this year it's at the CNE Convention Centre; BUT, if you check the show's website, the free parking is at Ontario Place. That's a heck of a long hike if you happened to buy anything more than a couple of pounds.
Besides, some of the good vendors have dropped out: they say it's getting too expensive and cut-throat.
There're a bunch of guys in our area who read the forum (but most don't post because of the chorus in the cheap seats, but occassionally I post for some of them)..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
My partner has the PC, I've got the Bosh HD, most of the serious finishers I know use the Bosh, I like it. Quite a few use homemade plywood jigs that they set up to whatever spacings they want. I make up a plywood jig myself for 8' doors. It takes a bit of thinking the first time around, but its a pretty simple concept, you flip the jig over for opposite swings or to route the jamb. You could save yourself $200 but you won't have a fancy new box in your tool kit. Used carefully I can hinge 200+ doors with the same plywood jig.
( your logo here) Turtleneck
Hi Turtleneck,
I've been there with the plywood jigs and other types, just tired of minor glitches and someone throwing out the old looking plywood box ECT, ECT....
Time to have one for all!
WoodBeaver
I prefer the Bosh door jig over the PC but it should give you good results. The PC has a wider plate for the router to sit on. I also prefer a router with a trigger switch when doing doors, my DDR (designated door router) is an old makita with wing handles. I only use the hole boring jig to impress customers on side jobs, it usually saves the husband from the question "Why couldn't you do that?" For production I use a 2 1/8" bi-metal hole saw and a 1" forstner bit. I've been down the hole boring jig highway, I even had a carbide bit made and still found that you just can't keep the #$%&! things sharp. I put a brad point pilot bit in the hole saw to avoid the wander of a regular bit. My last hole saw lasted 2 yrs and I would guess 500 doors. I touch up the forstner with a file now and then I can't remember how old it is.( your logo here) Turtleneck
Don't use a regular straight bit, but use instead a mortising bit. Consider using hinges with 5/8" radius corners, everybody makes 'em, and hog out those hinge mortises quickly with a 1-1/4" bit.
save your money and get prehung doors