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Someone posted some great advice here for replacing the T-nut and bolt on the PC 7/8 hp. Mod. 1001. I just can’t find that advice and I’m tired of replacing the T-nut and bolt everytime it fatigues, which is too often. I’m sure the solution is something simple, and I should be able to come up with it by myself, but…I can’t.
Gary
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No help from me, other than this article:
< Obsolete Link > Gary Weisenburger "Aftermarket locking lever for Porter-Cable Router" 7/25/00 12:41pm
It doesn't mention your model or hp, but mebbe this is what you had in mind?
*Mark and Gary,You can use the same modification on your 7/8-hp router as on the bigger ones, you just use a smaller locking lever. I now have the locking lever system on all my routers. The T-nuts just don't tighten enough unless I used a crescent wrench. Follow the thread in Mark's post to get Reid Tool's info, call them, and ask for a catalog. You'll probably have to use a different locking lever for your smaller router base.
*Pinske, the solid surface tools maker, also has a ratchet handle that replaces the original bolt....I'm getting a few next time I place an order. Check out the website here ; lots of cool tools that are useful for woodworking too, including a precision straight edge/router guide system that will allow you to do precision work over 12' if you want to, squares, etc.
*Adrian, I've been looling for something like that for a mighty long time. The unknown end of my PC laminate trimmer's wrench fits on the T bolt, but, you know, where the hell did I put that?And under 5 bucks too! Thanks
*Billy, if you ever find that wrench...can I borrow it? Maybe a pair for a bigger PC too? Huh?(subliminal message...check out the straightedges...imagine roughcutting something precious 1/16th oversize...slap on a precision straightedge or square and a pair of indexing arms...twenty second trim cut with router...perfection....not even going to mention their sink cutout jig....)
*Hey,Thanks for the great advice. I'll order those ratcheting handles for all my PC routers right away. I'm so tired of the T-nuts. The thing that bothers me the most is that as they age and can't be tightened, suddenly, the bit creeps out of the router as I'm mortising for hinges and yyyyyyccccchhhh, the mortise is way to deep.Gary
*Fine Woodworking #142 -- 7518 LeverThe parts list for the 7518 lever assembly was omitted from FWW#142. The lever, nut and sleeve are available @reidtool.com and other sources. The assembly is not a perfect match, the bolt hole in the casting will have to be drilled out to 5/16” and the nut will require grinding to nest and lock into the casting boss. Please note this is not a PC approved up-grade; it has served me well, nonetheless. Lever -- KHB-64 Nut -- FNC -2 Sleeve -- OIB-120Other fixed base routers will require different parts, one size does not fit all.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>PC 1001 casting users use KHB58, no sleeve and square nut ground to nest in casting boss.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>For more on the 7518 see 7518 etal
*Then what do you do? Fill those deep mortises up with a dutchman?
*Frank,I fill the deep mortises with the shims I save from shimming hollow-core doors.Actually, if the mortise is just a little too deep, sometimes I spread in a little sawdust before installing the hinge (Boy, that's gonna make me some friends!). If the mortise is way too deep, I plane the stile a little more and take less off the lock stile (I always plane the lock stile after the hinge stile). I only install a dutchman as a last resort--like making a math error in laying out the hinges. But in this case, I've ordered all those parts and will retrofit my PC routers. I've only been suffering from this malady for who-knows-how-many years! I make enough mistakes on my own and I don't need my tools failing me, too.Gary
*HA,HA,HA,HA! Sawdust and leftover shims. Thats a good one Gary. I think you should write an article in FHB on that one.Hey Gary,This might be a little off subject, but I have an upcoming job hanging a new mahogany entry door. I told the homeowner it would be best to replace the old jamb as the area where the deadbolt strike plate attaches is all broken out. The homeowner insists that he does not want to replace the jamb. Got any ideas on how to cut out the bad section and maybe put in a dutchman?
*Frank,I'm glad you laughed. But I was serious about the saw dust.For your Dutchman, I'm a router-kind-of-guy. I have a lot of strange templates I've made for both my regular and my plunge routers, all for template guides. Whenever I have to install a weird Dutchman, I reach for one of those templates and my plunge router. If you have some scraps of mahogany around, you might find one that's a close match for the old jamb. Though I remember one time I installed an oversized walnut Dutchman in a mahogany jamb, replacing the entire area of the latch strike and deadbolt strike. It looked pretty cool to me, but some people aren't into mixed woods. I have a nice set of Marbles chisels that I keep very sharp, but I've found that it's still easier to use a router than bang on an old jamb, especially when you're making a deep mortise. The Dutchman should be as thick as possible, leaving only enough of the jamb to provide attachment. And you definitely will want to use a router to cut the new strike mortises into the Dutchman. After cutting the strikes in, be sure to SHIM behind the dutchman and use long strike screws through the jamb, the shims and into the trimmer/jack stud. Use some of those shims you saved on those prehung doors!Gary
*Thanks Gary.
*gary... read your door hanging article today.... i ws fine with everything (not my cup of tea.. but so what..)..the shim method you do use though.. cutting cross grain tapered shims? don't they break off when you look at them cross-eyed ?and don't they want to fall out at the least shrinkage .. maybe not them shrinking .. but say the jack stud ?being builders we've always kept a box of white or red cedar shingle culls for our shims.. they trim easy with a utility knife... is part of your choice that you don't have access to something like white cedar shingles ?
*So, you sound like a prime candidate for the Jacobs tooless chuck. Anybody used them, I'd like to hear.For some unexplicable reason, I am getting Mrs. Snort a straightedge for xmas. Hope she gets me that Chanel I've been hinting about.
*Hey Frank,If you're hanging the door anyway, why not use your hinge templete on the strike side to gurr out the bad wood where the strike is? Then glue in the dutchman overnight and remortise the strike plate in the morning. Or you could do that in the morning, and by the time you get the door hung, yellow glue will have probably set up and you can mortise out that afternoon for a one day job.Just a thought.Ed. Williams
*Thanks Ed,I think I just may try that. For one thing it would eliminate having to make up some other template to do the job. Sounds like you may have done this before.
*Mike,We get all kinds of shims, here, too. We buy cedar shims in bulk, and I've used all the cute types, too, like the little packages from HD. All are very handy. But I still prefer cross-grain shims because I can break them off so easily and always behind the jamb. No, I don't think they move. Where would they go? I don't even nail through them all the time. Often I nail beneath the shims. It seems every time I nail through a shim I want to move it later. We all have our ways of doing things, I guess. I'm beginning to wonder just how many shims everyone out there is using? In my area, the rough openings are framed 2 in. over the size of the door, at the most. Most openings end up a little tighter than that, even. And usually the rough openings are centered in the hallways, in the bedroom/bathroom doorway nooks, etc. I find that in almost all openings, if I don't center the door in the rough opening, I'm defeating the rough framing layout. In most cases, there's LESS than 1/4 in. between the jamb and the trimmer/jack. I cut all my shims with a 1/4 in. heel and never stack more than two--one from one direction and one from the other. If I have to stack more than two shims, then there's something wrong with the RO, which means having to pad or furr a trimmer. I've heard ALL kinds of things about shims lately. I'm not just talking about the Prehung article, but maybe that's starting to get to me. I remember once a super on a job asked me why I don't CAULK my shims in! For CRYING OUT LOUD, lets get real and join the real world, here. I've demo'ed a LOT of old doors. Maybe nothing from the 18c, but some from the 19th and countless doors and jambs from the 20th c. I've seen some old shims, obviously. Sometimes they're nailed in, sometimes not. Few have moved much. Few have been very big. In fact, the older the jamb, the fewer the shims. Why? Because even as recent as when I was a kid starting in this business, trimmers/jacks used to be 'set' before the walls were plastered or drywalled. 'Set' meant that they were nailed in plumb and perfectly straight, with the opening 1 1/2 in. over the size of the door. 3/4 in. thick jambs JUST fit in those openings. Few shims were used. I still do the same thing on no-mold jambs: I set the trimmers; I try to avoid using shims. It's faster, it's stronger, it's better, it's cheaper-- maybe it's the right way.As for shimming or not shimming prehungs, excuse me while I VENT! 6/8 hollow-core doors only weigh ten or twenty pounds, for crying out loud. They're not elephants. If the rough opening is framed correctly, there's only 3/8 to 1/4 in. between the jamb and the trimmer. In the 80 in. of jamb, I shoot about ten nails through the casing into the trimmer (about twenty total on each jamb leg!) and about ten nails through the jamb and door stop into the trimmer. And then I run a long screw through the top hinge into the trimmer, which really carries the weight of the door. MY GOODNESS! Where's that jamb going to go? I've made mistakes, too, and had to remove some of the those jambs because I've nailed in the wrong swing. WHAT A BITCH! It takes a crow bar, a saws all! As I said in my article, I came across a couple doors--these were knock-down prefits that come with casing on BOTH sides of the jamb (good luck shimming those!)--that hadn't been nailed at all! Only the casing was holding the jambs into the openings. But the painters had caulked the casing to the walls and the jambs/doors still worked great almost a year later. I'm the last person in the world to cut an important corner to make more money; but I'd like to be at the head of the line when it comes to innovation. It's a VERY competitive market where I live. I've heard some flinching about getting $6.00 a door in the 1980s. Hey, join the real world. This is how I've had to make a living. If you haven't had the experience, you may soon. I've made a good living and I never installed s--t. We pride ourselves on NOT having call backs on our jobs. A lot of guys where I live hang thirty or forty prehungs in a day. If our guys can't install fifteen to twenty pre-hungs, even in a custom home, in one day, then something's seriously wrong with them, the job, or our supervision/training. My goodness, I know door hangers who butt, bevel, and bore forty slab doors in a day, and all the margins are PERFECT!Whoops, I think I went too far. But I'm beginning to feel better,Gary
*geesh ... gary... merry christmas.. happy holidays....i think i just caught the tail end of some bad vibes you been catchinnot to worry.. i assume you weren't spewing in my direction..my goal ( since we do all our own framing ) is to have no shims behind the hinges...and we frame 2 inches over door size also..no.. my question was with vertical grain.. shimsif they're tight and you have to pull them out to adjust.. don't tehy just snap off when you don't want them to ?my favorites are about a 3 inch wide white cedar straight grain shingle shim...to each their own...on the OLD doors.. tehy were stronger for another reason.. they were usually a rabbeted jamb.. so they were 1.5 inch thick..do you remember that article about 5 years ago .. some calif. trim guy was hanging doors with some bent nails....the head of the nail bit into the edge of the casing to hold the door in apx. alignment?another trick my door salesman showed me..since they're pre-hung.. and the door mortise machine is extremely accurate.. when the latch plate is exactly opposite the strike plate... the door is level..a great visual....on teh hollow -core pre-hungs..your casing nail pattern is th key. i liked your nail pattern..the old timers when i started out in '73 told me .. no matter how the rest of teh job was done .. the nailing of the casing was the final lock on movement..shim---or no-shim.. a lot of the door movement i see is failure to nail off the casing....keep 'em comming , gary... and happy holidays..
*Gary, I'm guessing you're not talking about pre-hung split jamb doors, 'cause I want to know about your no call-back references if you are.I am a shim man, but would love to go with a faster way, as long as it works as well.My personal take is: Long screw in the top is important, AND, the bottom hinge being shimmed is even more so. Put a full length mirror on a door, couple that with a natural phenomenon named gravity and we only go downhill from there. Maybe I just like to nip things in the bud, but, I have had call backs on doors(I've only been hanging them for 15 years, and can't even come close to 1000, and am in awe) and don't like them ( call backs or split jambs).And what's this about an article in some magazine? Am I missing something by being subscriber???
*Gary and Mark,Wow! I can't thank you both enough. The locking levers, nuts, and bushings arrived today and in just a few minutes, I'd converted one of my PC routers. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! WHY DIDN'T I... The older I get the more my hands hurt and that T-nut was a bad culprit, especially once they softened up and started to wear out.Can't thank you guys enough. Can't wait till the other guys on my crew see my routers. HahaGary
*Hey Gary,I can't tell you how many pre-hungs I've hung just by the casings. Even 6 panels. I've never had one go bad yet. Most of the big doors we hang nowadays have to be shimmed. I buy them by the case (30 bundles). They are cedar shims 1½" by 9". We shim the p*ss out of them. The more the merrier.Ed. Williams
*Dunno who Mark is, but glad to help.
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Someone posted some great advice here for replacing the T-nut and bolt on the PC 7/8 hp. Mod. 1001. I just can't find that advice and I'm tired of replacing the T-nut and bolt everytime it fatigues, which is too often. I'm sure the solution is something simple, and I should be able to come up with it by myself, but...I can't.
Gary