First of all I have to say I hate post form tops with and without miters. I am looking in to buying the right laminate routers, files, rollers, etc. So I need your input on all necessary tools for the work at hand. I don’t want generic tools that can’t ever be serviced.
Always buy the best so you will always be happy with it.
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OK, I have a bosch laminate trimmer kit (reg base, 45 deg. and offset). Laminate snips, smooth and coarse files. Wax pencil. Slitter for edge band. Rockwell 315 circ saw for cutting. Bottle of vaseline. Laminate glue roller. A load of old venetian blinds to hold the lam above the glued deck. A small J roller and a wide, adj. handle roller. An old silverline Rockwell belt sander. A block you fit sand belts onto.............and non bearing lam. router bits. A drywall bucket. Lacquer thinner. An old iron.
that might be it.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
What is the model of laminate router? Tools of the trade did a test and found the Portercable a better fit for doin mainly laminate work. Are there any companies out there that specialize in selling laminate tools? Thanks again for the help
Blues
I have used the old PC laminate trimmer and I believe they had a kit with several bases also. It was a quality pc of machinery.
The bosch I have is old. Maybe 15 yrs or more. Its in the van, dark and cold. If you need the model number I can look in the a.m. if I put a postit note on my forehead. Lemme know.
I would rank both the old style kits as the way to go.
I've used an old (get the picture) Milwaukee that also performed well.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Are there any companies out there that specialize in selling laminate tools?
A couple of local laminate distributors also carry bits, rollers, trimmers, slitters, you name it. The place that has ALL the laminate that goes to shops, lumberyards etc. Where you go when you order it and wanna pick it up now.
I buy all my power tools from a local tool house Electric Tool and Equipment. They have supplied me for over 30 yrs. Good selection, good service and a real help.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Here's one resource if you're thinking online or catalog. Good folks, always anxious to please.
http://www.specialtytools.com/PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Heat gun for coved corners and/or full-height splash, too, perhaps? (Sometimes better than the old iron.)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
A heat gun is a nice tool. You have to keep a close eye on it's use with plastics. I carry a hair dryer too, don't want to be caught not looking good.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
to keep a close eye on it's use with plastics. I carry a hair dryer too
LoL! I started out with a pawnshop-bought 1800W blow dryer, which had many, many uses. It, for $10, of course, would not die, particularly when I had talked myself into that I needed a nice, shiny, new, pro-looking, heat gun <sigh>.
Blow dryer could be left running on low & low heat on the closed glue bucket when it was a cold morning like today without too much minding, too.
But, for full-height splash work, 10' & 12' long peices, the heat gun, deftly used, was much more elegant for being slightly quicker. Especially with the rolled front edge that seemed to be standard with those jobs (where the hardest part was having to handle very hot laminate <g>).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I have the phone numbers of a coupla countertop fabricators that come out and templete ... then deliver a CT that fits just about perfect ...
I also have a belt sander for that final scribe.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Which makes you just that much smarter Jeffrey.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
plus ... this way ...
I can offer way more edge details ...
than I could offer?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Ok, I'll bite...
What's the vasoline for?" If I were a carpenter"
lubrication, of course.
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Like dustin says, lube.
I put a swipe on the surface that guides the bit to keep it from burning. There's a spray I used to use-Lamilube. The vaseline is quick, cleans up easily.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I use to use electrical tape for the first rout pass.
Then lubricate every 8"-00".
OK, I have a bosch laminate trimmer kit (reg base, 45 deg. and offset). Laminate snips, smooth and coarse files. Wax pencil. Slitter for edge band. Rockwell 315 circ saw for cutting. Bottle of vaseline. Laminate glue roller. A load of old venetian blinds to hold the lam above the glued deck. A small J roller and a wide, adj. handle roller. An old silverline Rockwell belt sander. A block you fit sand belts onto.............and non bearing lam. router bits. A drywall bucket. Lacquer thinner. An old iron.
What he said.
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Dustin, don't tell me you have a roll of tape for your finger tips.
And believe me, if you ever need any more venetian blinds, I got a #### load. Forgot to bring em out as give aways at the fest. 7' long if your tops that big.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I've never used the venetian blinds. "Just Stick It" is my credo. Really though, I usually cut the pieces big, and trim them. No tricky alignment.
Do you have any tricks for bending countertop thickness laminate? I need to laminate a bar rail on site(about 57' worth), and I'd like to avoid any sharp edges.
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Can't quite picture what you're doing. Edge band? or are you trying to form this stuff like a postform counter edge?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I don't know how to explain. Maybe the picture will work....
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Are they set on having that front rail raised up above the bar surface? Bartender must spill alot of beer. If you flushed it up with the top, no sharp edge. I'd be concerned with the dam and water/beer/marguerita's also.
That's going to be a tough detail, I don't know if you'd be successful using vertical grade and heat and maybe softening the transition a bit. You sure couldn't site bend anything that sharp...........I don't think. Hopefully somebody here's done one like it, I sure haven't.
edit: Could we have some more info on stacey or her mother?
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 11/17/2005 10:24 pm ET by calvin
Yeah, I'm trying to match a similar bar detail
here is Stacy's mom.
http://www.xfm.co.uk/Article.asp?id=19435&spid=
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Edited 11/17/2005 10:53 pm ET by dustinf
Yes she does.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
and I'd like to avoid any sharp edges.
cut them ... rout them ...
then good old fashion hand sanding / sand paper.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Yeah that was my original plan. I'm just looking for something a little more "custom".
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
you dont need much to fabricate laminated countertops, just some pretty basic wood working tools most of which are use to make the substrate
a laminate trimmer is nice, but any router will work, but a laminate trimmer bit is almost a must, other than that, contact cement, a supply of spacers such as venetian blind slats and clean up stuff is all you'll need
The best tool is the special saw horses or work tables.
20" wide and any length.This way you can rout on both sides without any problems.
The next best tool is a good straight edge. all your cuts are tapered.
Another good tool is the glue spreader. you can make your own with a piece of laminate and a fine teeth file. 4" high and 6-8" wide. Use your file to make the teeth similar to a trowel. Only 1/64" deep and 1/16" apart.
This home made spreader is much better than roller.
Using a roller is a big problem.
Take your time and good luck.
YCF Dino
Edited 11/17/2005 10:08 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
No problem with a laminate glue roller and solvent based glues. Doesn't work well with the water based. It's not a throw away and requires no cleaning (cept for the end near the frame). I use the same one over and over. Doesn't bubble much at all, before setting a quick swipe with your hand bursts the bubble.
I use a scrap pc of edgeband for a glue squeegie, no grooves filed tho, just a square-edged pc. Sweep it like your troweling thinset, moving the bulk of the glue ahead of the finished area.
Steve here has done more tops than all of us put together, I'd pay attention to what he has to offer if I was just getting started. But now I'm too damn bullheaded to try much of anything new. What's worked for all these years I'm pretty sure will work tomorrow.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Try the home made spreader next time.
You can save 50% of the glue and get a faster and better job the same time.
I use the roller for years. The spreader EZ IT.
see you old timer.
By the way. I learn that from an old man.
YCF D