Need to pour a low 2-3″ concrete curb to keep water from running into an Over head Door way.I’ll be from the OHD outward 12-16″ and sloped so an occasional forklift (hard wheeled , not baloon tired) can go over it. I figure to form 3/4″ on both sides and pour the hump in the middle. My supplier has hi-strength 5000# bags. Is this what you would do, or are there other ways. Also is 5000# concrete not just more cement but smaller gravel which would allow for the 3/4″ thin edge. And whats the chance the forklift will destroy the edges? I will use 6×6 wire in the pour. Thanks
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Forget the WWM. There's no room in 3/4" for it and you won't be able to get it out to the feathered edges where it would be most needed.
You can't feather SakCrete.
Use 100-0 grit sand, cement, and a flexizing admix. Sand:cement at 2:1. Sub the admix for 5% of the water. Mix really stiff, just wet enough to be barely workable.
With those hard tired forklifts, you'll want a gradual slope, about 3' on both sides. Take an 8' 2x6 and cut your profile out of the middle 6'. Use this as your scree board. Dump the mix in the doorway and rough it into shape with a rake or shovel. Use at least 50% more 'crete than you think you'll need. Hand shape the side edges.
The second most important part is prepping the existing floor under the ramp. Use a 15# chipping hammer with a buffing head and buff all the old surface off. Vacuum the dust off, then blow it off with high pressure air. 30 minutes before you mix the 'crete, wet the surface. just before mixing paint it with an adhesive admix.
The first most important thing is curing. I don't think the owners will want to wait the best practices week before using this door, so see if they'll let you do this thursday evening and not use it untill monday. If not Thursday, demand that you get it as early as possible Friday afternoon and keep it till Monday morning.
The curing process: Two days before you start, set some heat lamps over the area and bring the floor temp up to around 95* and let this heat soak in deep. As soon after finishing as it's thumb pressure hard, wet down the ramp and the old floor around it, lay visqueen over neatly over it, put some curing (heating) blankets over that and set them to keep the ramp at 95*. You could use the lamps instead of the blankets, but I think the blankets would be easier to regulate.
Preheating the floor means that you will have to work fast. You might want to practice using the screed at the shop before you do the real thing. $12 worth of sand and cement will give you a couple of trial runs. Put some retard in it and you could get several practice runs. Using cold water to mix your mud at the site will give you a bit more working time and won't hurt the curing.
SamT
Wow, this is great to hear all the details that make a difference in order to do a proper job. You can't fool me, you have done this before. Thanks
"You can't fool me, you have done this before"How do you know I'm not just a 13yo guurl stealing time on my daddy's 'putor?.
.
.(|:>)SamT
"How do you know I'm not just a 13yo guurl stealing time on my daddy's 'putor?"This could go bad, real fast.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Yeah, I could be a cop, pretending to be a 13 yo, pretending to be a concrete expert, pretending to be a girl.ROAR!SamT
Wanna meet IRL?Sick, sick, sick!So, what are you wearing?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I've met Sam IRL, and believe me, you'd never , ever mistake him for a 13 yo gurl...LOL
Ya gotta meet him, he's da bomb.
I ain't wearing no pants...Above quote stolen from T.SamT