I wondered if a tool existed to do the following. Imagine a single story ranch with 1/2 gyp. When wall meets ceiling we all know that the tape job feathers out the 90 deg joint–no longer square. Now take away ceiling for addition of 2 story addition. Add gyp board to stairway going up. Now have butt joint but original taping mud throws things way out of the usual flat butt joint specs. Is there something like a rotary cheesegrater attached to a vac to remove original corner mud? Rockers already have gyp board in place and without some way to get rid of what was the mudded corner my butt joint is going to have to be mudded for many feet to hide the former inside corner. This would be so easy to describe with a pencil and pad. I’m hitting the sack! Thanks, Tyr
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I Don't know of any such tool. There shouldn't really be all that much compound in what used to be the corner. I assume you removed the old tape? If there's still too much to easily deal with, it seems like it would be easier to remove the paper from the old drywall and start anew.
If you do go this route, remove enough paper (utility knife to score it and taping knife to peel it) so all of the compound comes with it. Thoroughly prime it. Use compound (Durabond would work well here) to bring it even with the new drywall. Then tape and spackle as usual.
-Don
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7800-Drywall-Sander/dp/B00002267Z
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
this will not remove texture, even with rough paper
I don't think texture was mentioned by the OP. I've never used one. Personally, I'd cut out the rock an extra foot and re-rock. Rock on.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Personally, I'd cut out the rock an extra foot and re-rock. Rock on.<<I was wondering if I was missing something from the original posters question. The answer seemed real obvious. You answered it.
Why would anyone want to sand out all the old mud??Creation arises, is sustained for awhile, and then things change. That’s the dance.
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
http://www.ramdass.com
The PC sander rules! See you posted a link.
It removes alot of mud in a hurry, if its your first time start off with a finer grit pad (220 grit) so you don't remove all the mud and have to start over. Once comfortable with it, use what you like.
Cut the dry wall back to the next ceiling joist if it is that bad, or rent a PC drywall sander . You don't need to cut it bak to the center of the joist. Just cut it to the edge and add a nailer for the new board. Should have done that b4 the hangers got there.
Dave
I like the idea of cutting back the gypboard. It happens to be the wall portion of the corner rather than the ceiling but the concept is the same. We already tried a sander and filled the place with dust (not the PC sander). Because this is a remodel the owner is still in residence. Even with plastic sheeting and closed doors the dust found its way to the HO's computer (cooling fans, etc.) I can cut the gypboard away about a foot, replace and finish. The rental store had a squirrel cage fan with about 30' of wire reinforced tube that will handle the airborn stuff during tearout. A wet knockdown sponge will prep the joint. Should have thought of all this already but my crew needed my attention on other matters. Thanks, Tyr
>>We already tried a sander and filled the place with dust (not the PC sander). Because this is a remodel the owner is still in residence. Even with plastic sheeting and closed doors the dust found its way to the HO's computer (cooling fans, etc.)
That is why everyone was sugesting the PC sander. It has an integral hose that hooks to your shop vac. With a good HEPA filter on the vac, you get very little airborn dust.
Dave
i use a bobcat to remove mud outside.recip. saw,sledge when inside. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.