Pre-hanging doors,I’m looking for input
I am pre-hanging 44 Fir panel doors in custom made Fir jams for the restoration of a 4story Vic.
I want to set up one room of my shop to do this job, and I’m looking for input and ideas to make it as efficient as possible.
In this room is the lumber rack with all jamb stock(700lf) ready for cut-off and dado. I have a temporary rack set up to store the doors verticaly.
I will make one hinge mortise jig to do both door&jamb, and I have a Stanley boring jig for the locksets. I figure I can cut the jamb lengths on my sliding saw(stops), then dado them on the RAS.
The door comes out of the rack and into a door jack on the floor for hinge mortises and lock boring. then to tablesaw for edge bevel. From there to a work table to be put in the jamb, which would be assembled&stops tacked on.
As I think about it, I see that I should also make a marking jig for strike locations on the jambs.
What am I missing or should be reminded of?
Replies
what are ya missing?
A fool proof way to know whats a left and whats a right and how to keep track accuratly.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
instead of the RAS for the head dado .... how about lining up as many will fit ...
and zip thru them all with a router?
Oh yeah .... are we remembering to kerf the backs?
if so .... 5 kerfs are just 3 table saw settings ... one inch in .... flip the board for both "outside kerfs" ... then widen it a bit ... for the next two(remember the flip deal) ... then one right down the middle.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Sounds right to me. Is all the hardware typical, if not Iwould not bore the locksets until the door is installed, strike plates may vary too. I have used a table saw to saw the bevels, very fast and clean cuts with a good rip blade. I use 1 degree for hinge side and 3 degrees for lock side on both interior and exterior doors of normal thickness ( 1 3/8" & 1 3/4" ).Do you chamfer the jamb stock? I don't myself, but many door manufactures do. They usually leave 1/2 the thickness of jamb square and back bevel very slightly to facilliate trimming. I do not think this is neccessary.
I sometimes trim one side while jamb is on table. I add a spreader to the bottom with 1 1/2x 1 1/2" angles on each side, screwed into jamb where the stop will be.I cut the trim for the other side, leaving the legs long. The trim is taped and marked for each door. I only add trim to one side if the rooms are painted, if the wall is bare I eliminate the trimming til the room is ready.
One more important thing, do one door, hang it , install hardware. You can work out any kinks this way. You don't want to work out the kinks on 44 doors, just one if there are any problems.
mike
Thanks for the responses, some things I should have mentioned, I'm not hanging the doors, just supplying the pre-hung units and mouldings, and most of the hardware is uniform, except for a few variations.
I have a set of plans for the job, since it is my responsibilty to get the right door for the right opening, so as I pick out a door, I will label it as the plan is, and swing it per/spec. Almost every jam is a little different in terms of width, and I have already ripped and designated parts, see pic. All the jambs are back-cut, and after assembly, I will ease the edges with a 1/8"radius.
Thanks for the mention of the slight bevel on the hinge edge, I had forgotten that.
There is no way to attach the trim on one side of the door, as the trim detail is a large, buit-up head casing, wide(4-1/2") side casings with plinth blocks.