I have a job where the owner picked out 3 1/2″ maple prefinished flooring. very nice stuff, solid wood, 3/4″ thick. When I ripped up the carpet today expecting to find plywood, I instead found full 2×6 planking (doug fir I believe). the planking is nailed to the joists and is relatively flat. I was thinking up power planing any high spots in the boards, laying down rosin and running the new floor perpendicular to the planking so the new flooring can span any minor cups or crowns in the planking. anyone see any issues with this idea?
Also, is there any advantage / disadvantage to using 30 lb tar paper instead of rosin?
Finally, the fireplace has a raised hearth. in front the owner would like a border of wood. only problem is that two courses of flooring would be on top of the concrete footing (nothing to nail to). would glueing the flooring to the concrete work well. just use a pl product?
thanks in advance
Jason
“it aint the work I mind,
It’s the feeling of falling further behind.”
Bozini Latini
Replies
I think I would use floor sander rather than the planer. One pass with medium grit. A circular sander rather than a drum sander.
Glue the border to the adjoining pieces of flooring.
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should I also glue it down to to concrete? I thought about the floor sander idea. I will look into that.thanksJason"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latinihttp://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
Sure, glue to the surrounding pcs and P L it to the concrete.
Might want to screw the subfloor b/4 you start.
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I really do not think sanding will do any good -- catch on a nail head or a splinter sticking out and the paper is gone.
If you have to - put 1/8" or 1/4 ply down. I like the 30lb felt as it has some ability to fill a small voids and gives a good floor to start with plus the added protection to any thing below -- 30 is not much more than 15.
I would use PL on the surround around the fire place that does not have a nailing area - I'd bring some bricks in for the weight to keep it it flat till the PL set up.
I went around with a 6' level and the variation in the old plank flooring was minimal. 3/16" was probably the highest ridge there and about 1/8" for the worst cup. the planks are nailed with some 20 d nails (planking is actually a full 2" thick). the floor is very solid. I plan to screw down any squeeks but there aren't many. The felt vs. the rosin paper thing however I am on the fence about. it is finished below so moisture isn't much of an issue. I've pulled up old flooring that tends to get glued to the felt paper. do you think this would have any negative impact to floor movement or would the natural movement of the floor be so minimal it wouldn't matter.thanks for the input,jason"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latinihttp://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
I agree with Piffin. I use tar paper when it's going ove an un conditioned space like a crawl space. Otherwise, I use rosin. It's cheap, rolls out flatter, and I use it to cover what I've finished at the end of the day.
Well as it turns out things seem to be going fairly well. I started by sliding the 6' level around on the floor and marking any humps that needed to be planed down. then we rolled out a couple courses of tar paper (owner insisted, I think rosin would have been fine) and we maked all the crowns in the sub floor planks. Then we made sure to nail only at the high spots (about every 8 inches or so) so that we wouldn't make the board wavy (up and down) thus making it hard to get the next run of boards in. seems to be working. Lot of extra work involved with planing the humps, renailing the boards, and following the nailing pattern stated above. I'm beat and it's only two days into the job. I probably have 4 to go.Thanks everyone for your advice,Jason"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latinihttp://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
If you add a layer of ply, you are reducing the bite of the flooring nails into the true subfloor."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
you have just detailed it about the way i would do this, except that I might use a forty to sixty grit in my 4x24 belt sander. I'd hate to catch a nail with my planer.
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good thought. I will pick up some coarse belts. thanks,Jasonany thoughts on rosin vs tar paper?"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latinihttp://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
Either oronly problem with tarpaper is that some people dislike the smell of it off-gasing. No problem to me after twenty years of roofing though. if moisture moving up from under it is likely, I am prone to use the tarppaer, but normally rosin since it lays flatter and is cheaper.
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I ended up planing some areas since it was a lot to take off but I did in fact catch a nail. DOH."it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latinihttp://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
but use felt instead of rosin...
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