In the process of repairing a poorly operating exterior door, I’ve been tearing out all kinds of remuddle work. Ultimately, I’m going to going to reframe from the king studs in, including the jack studs and the header. Along the way, I have several questions:
1. What wood species and stock thickness should I use for my frame? 6/4 and then rabbet in my stops so the interior face thickness is 3/4″? Or should I just use applied stops?
2. If the door is ~36″, and I add 1/8″ on each side + 3/4″ each side for the jamb thickness + 3/8″ each side for shimming, then the RO (between jack studs) is going to be 38-1/2″. What size header do I need? (2)2×4 or (2)2×6?
3. The existing construction is true 2″x4″ framing. I’m planning on just ripping 2x6s to a 4″ width for the studs. Is that good technique or just wasteful?
4. How would you build up your header? (2) 2x6s and (2) layers of 1/2 plywood, or what?
I’ll post up some sketches of my design soon.
Replies
1. What wood species and stock thickness should I use for my frame? 6/4 and then rabbet in my stops so the interior face thickness is 3/4"? Or should I just use applied stops?
I'd use clear vertical grain fir, if you can get it. The rest is as you say, either/or on the stops.
2. If the door is ~36", and I add 1/8" on each side + 3/4" each side for the jamb thickness + 3/8" each side for shimming, then the RO (between jack studs) is going to be 38-1/2". What size header do I need? (2)2x4 or (2)2x6?
I'd go with double 2x6, just on general principles. And if those are your r.o. dimensions, you better be plumb level and square on the money!
3. The existing construction is true 2"x4" framing. I'm planning on just ripping 2x6s to a 4" width for the studs. Is that good technique or just wasteful?
rip away
4. How would you build up your header? (2) 2x6s and (2) layers of 1/2 plywood, or what?
Yeah.
Carry on. Sounds like you really already knew the answers. =)
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