Hello Everyone,
I am hoping someone might be able to help me. Our client wants broken tile mosaic countertops and backsplash. I was reading from the website The Tile Doctor about variations of install techniques. It mentioned the plywood needed to have “random dot and dash saw cuts 6″-8″parallel to the cabinet edge need to be made. The 1/4″ spacing or saw cuts are designed to allow the wood to equalize moisture content.” Is this common practice? Does it need to be done randomly all over or just near the edge? I would be interested in any feedback.
Thank you!!
Replies
I've recently removed two made in place tiled countertops with plywood beneath, both from the 30's. There were no cuts in the plywood, yet they somehow lasted seventy years without a problem. Maybe they had better plywood then?
Thank You,
Maybe its not that big of a deal?
Never heard of this. Moisture? Once you cover the ply with tile, there's no moisture at all getting to it from the top. I did see a suggestion from someone a while ago to put plastic above a dishwasher to prevent steam/moisture from hurting the ply, but that was on the uncovered bottom.
I use strong plywood, like 3/4 inch, screwed to the cabinet tops, covered with cement board for thin set tile adhesive. Also use epoxy grout. That keeps out the water and makes clean up easier.
Don
Don
Never heard of that technique. How do you get a circular saw to cut 'dots'?
The epoxy grout mentioned by Don will last forever, but it is extremely difficult to install. Regular grout, well sealed, will do just fine.
If you're concerned about using plain plywooid, then you might consider adding a layer of Ditra.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Well, I just spent about 10 minutes on that site, and I must say that I am underwhelmed. Call me picky, but I am not impressed with a site that has misspelled words (desinger for designer) and bad grammer. It's one thing to get ona forum here and make typos or whatever, but your official website should be darn near perfect.
They tout themselves as being one of the best sites for information, according to PC World (or PC-something) magazine. Ok. That magazine also lists "hometime" (of tv fame) as being the best site for info on homebuilding.
It just seemed to be heavy on advertising and "join here" stuff. They claim that if you join up, they will send an inspector to your house to aedvise you on your tile project.
If you want an independent opion, other than the 'experts' here at Breaktime, there is an excellent tile forum at johnbridge.com
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks so much to all of you for your replies. The 'dots' thing stumped me too. I had heard that epoxy grout was more difficult to work with and I think for this application maybe I will just go the standard sanded grout with sealant. I will definetly check out the suggested website.
I second the epoxy grout route. It's not extremely hard to install, just different. Use Laticrete Spectralock Pro and never worry about staining or sealing the grout. I use it all the time and never have had any problems.
Ray
I wonder if the plywood they mean is not an 'exterior' grade and therefore WOULD be affected by the water in the mortar? I would recommend 3/4" BC or CDx ply with 1/2" Hardi on the top. I go with the thicker so that I can use the standard trim pieces and not have them overhang the edge. (Try getting your fingers pinched in that) I also have use the Schluter trim pieces and they have one called Rondec Step (I believe) that would eliminate the need for bullnose/trim pieces.