Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 12:08am | #1

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   Hi Dan,

   Inside corners are fine with a stud set back a couple of inches. Only butt joints are more demanding.

   I'm assuming that you have removed all the old plaster and lath. What a pain to do and dusty, but should always be done.

   Gabe

2. 
   Dan_G | Jul 10, 1999 12:21am | #2

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   Thanks for the advice Gabe. And you're not kidding about removing all of that plaster and lath being a pain, but at least for that job I knew what the heck I was doing without having to consult a book. Actually I take that back. I read that it was easier to remove all of the plaster first and then all of the lath. And it was much easier to manage this way, although not as instantly gratifing as taking a sledge to a wall and just pounding the crap out of it.

   Thanks again.

   Dan

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 12:41am | #3

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   Dan,

   I would start by pulling strings along the walls and ceilings to ensure that the faces of the studs and joists are in the same plane. Old wood lath and plaster houses were built with air dried full demention lumber that was subject to a lot of shrinking and mill variation. Not much of a problem when the plaster would get it true to the eye in the end but a real problem when refinishing with dry wall.

   It is also important to know if you plan to reuse the old mill work, i.e, door jams, baseboard, window trim, hardwood floors, etc. If that is your intention then you need to ensure that the room side surface of your drywall is in the same plane as your old plaster walls. I am going to assume you are going to reuse your millwork.

   Wood lath and plaster walls are normally thicker than dry wall. This works to your advantage. You will need to determine the thickness of your old wall covering. To make this easy, we will say 1". You have two ways to go. The first is to shim your studs to 1/2" of the desired interior wall plane. You can use strips of plywood or masonite for thes purpose. Use strings and shim each stud and plate to the line. Alternatively, you can strap the walls with 1/2" plywood strips. Run a strap every 16" on center. Again, use strings and shim or notch as necessary where the strap passes over a stud.

   For ceilings, strap with nominal 1"x3" (3/4" thick) lumber. Again, use stringlines and shim or notch to ensure a flat plane.

   If you strap the walls and ceilings the 4' ends of the drywall should nail or screw off in 4 straps. This should be sufficient.

   If, however, you shim each stud and plate you will need to cut your dry wall to endure that the but joints fall on a stud. Unsupported but joints will crack (answers your original question).

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 01:50am | #4

   *One other problem that you can run into is having old lumber that the sap has hardened in, which seems to have the effect of petrifing the wood! I have some walls where I had to pre-drill in order to run drywall screws in.Also, be sure and heed the advice about millwork. I screwed up a room by not taking the window extensions out and redoing them.

4. 
   david_sorg | Jul 10, 1999 04:48am | #5

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   We had a similiar situation where we did not really have the time or the inclination to shim each stud. Instead we used 5/8 type X which is much stiffer and heavier than standard 1/2 inch and it flowed smoothly from highs to lows; no humps or dips, even in a raking light. We then skim coated all of it which lent a subtle softness that makes the finished walls and ceilings look and feel darned close to plaster.

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 05:32am | #6

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   Dan,

   Good advice so far. I would add that if your missing nailers in the inside corners where walls were tied into the lath try using 2"x2" metal angle it comes in 20 and 25 gauge just like its regular track and stud conterparts and makes for a nice corner. Definately plub the corner studs and string lines high and low if the walls are in a reasonably straight plane then go for it (I like to use 5/8" rock when I can. If the walls are way out of whack then either shim as suggested or sister each stud to the strings and shim the wall and door trimmers only. You can also sister with metal stud if you prefer. We always do that on the ceilings...it's a toss up on the walls. This eliminates the petrified sap syndrome that was mentioned too. Did a house about 3 years ago that was built around 1870 drywall screws were useless in that, had to use deckmates.

   Good luck,

   Richard Max

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 05:49am | #7

   *Dan,You've got some great post so far. 5/8" dry wall will span the corners as you asked, but if you're unsure about 1/2", they do make a metal clip for inside corners in commercial applications where they don't use conventional framed wood corners. Check with your local drywall supplier.Good luck,Ed. Williams

6. 
   Dan_G | Jul 10, 1999 08:11am | #8

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   Thanks for all the great info.

   I left all of the baseboards in place because they were 3 piece and very brittle so now I have a gap of about 7/8 in. between them and the studs.

   I ran a string and the walls are pretty good, but the ceilings are a different story.

   So, putting all of the suggestions together, I'll either run strapping across the ceiling or sister steel studs as suggested. For the walls I'll bring the individual studs out plumb with the string so I just have enough room to slip the board behind.

   I'm still up in the air about using angle or something similar in the corners but I think I will use 5/8 if that will tend to smooth things out a little.

   Thanks very much,

   Dan

7. 
   Dan_G | Jul 10, 1999 08:11am | #9

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   I'm restoring a house and am to the point of getting the walls ready for drywall (or possibly blueboard for hardcoat plaster).

   I'm putting in a lot of new wood to support the board as the house was originally wood lathed and plastered. In some places where the edge of the board will fall, i.e. corners, there is an original stud already there but it is 1 or 2 inches from where the edge of the board will be. Is this sufficient support or do I need support precisely at the edge of the board?

   I'm trying to get in by Christmas and I don't want to cut corners, but I don't want to do unnecessary work either. Thanks in advance for the info.

   Dan G