We’re going to be installing wood shingle siding on a new home: should we be priming them four sides before installing? What techniques do you use?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Get 'pre-primed' to save time. Seriously...
But you still can paint them before nailing them up, at least the first coat (perhaps final coat, with touchups post-install). Lots of different approaches to this problem...
I did a batch using a 'stationary' roller. This method can be used for primer or paint:
I have found that it is difficult to get shingles positioned for painting, particularly on all sides at once. Bringing shingles to the applicator seems easier than bringing the applicator to the shingles.
Clamped the roller handle (oriented horizontally) to an 8-inch concrete block (for height and ballast) resting on a table. Placed tray under roller (on table) to catch excess. Passed all four sides of the shingles over the roller.
Lifted tray up to roller to reload.
Hung shingles on a line to dry using clothespins. Clip thin end to avoid visible marks.
Prime any cut edges as they are installed, and touch up with paint later.
As a twist, some folks completely submerge the shingles in primer, then use a roller or flat pad to 'remove' the excess. I found this to be messier and slower, but maybe there is a way to make this twist work with some process modifications.
Best of luck.
First, don't ask Frenchy for help (he'd tell you that too; there's a whole thread on his adventures . . . :-)
My way is to build racks, similar to a pallet. The sides are 2x and the slats are strapping, with narrow slots for the thin end of the shingle (light tap to set the shingle in the space firmly). You can get a good batch of shingles corraled that way. Then you just spray. The rack can be rolled over to get all sides of the shingles. In addition, the racks can be stacked out of the way, to dry.
I'm trying to visualize the jig: do you run a saw kerf through the strapping to set the shingles in? How deep? do the shingles sit in the rack parallel to the 2x's, or perpendicular?
I'm trying to visualize the jig
Ok, couple of salvaged 2x long edge up about 3' apart. Put a 1x4 across the top & bottom. Set a piece of strapping (or scrap 1x) about 3/16' away from the 1x4. You want a gap that will 'grab' the shingle, without too much of it sticking out the back.
You could use all 1x4, but that adds weight and reduces places to grab the jig. So for the next row of shingles, set another piece of strapping, then set a second at the "shingle" gap. Repeat as needed. A couple pieces of 1x on the back give a pallet-like rigidity.
If you happened upon a pile of $2 or $3 pallets, you could "narrow" the gap with some 1x and use opposed shims to wedge the shingles into place. Upside: the shims use wedge strength for "grab." Downside, you need about 5 hands per row of shingles, and you get a big pile of "bits" on dissasembly
I use Maibec predipped in stain.
After today, I have a whole new line of thought about painted cedar shingles. I spent half the day removing siding shingles along the base of the walls in order to see how bad the rot in the sills is so I can order the replacement beams.
These cedars were installed in 1973 and appear to have been painted three times, at least, since then.
We've had some pretty heavy rains lately but I have never seen the like or what I saw in these shingles. I've never removed any painted shingles before - only stained. Every shingle I tore off was wet through and puncky with the beginnings of rot. I seems to me that when the wind drove water in behind them they soaked it up and then held onto it. The paint prevented it from wicking dry again. Last rain was about 3-4 days ago.
Excellence is its own reward!
Hmm... were those shingles ever treated in the back, before having been put up?
hey Piffen don't get too carried away over thinking what is happening to that cedar don't you think something is happening from above or one intense case of wicking from below in a typical web of 3 ply shingle well fastened there is little room for penetration ( also re: problem as you would be quick to note moisture could be from within )
this very day I'm removing ( it's raining w/ intermittent sun ) 91 yr old cedar shingles from my house - southern and western exposure where our prevailing wet weather comes from - and they are in reasonably good shape but the paint face stinks so rather than mess w/ sanding, heat gun or paint removers I'm replacing the suckers w/ primed and painted shingles ( live in Pacific NW )
you and others have often spoken of Maibecs could you say something of cost / and have they used a good oil primer or top notch latex w/ tannin blocker? thanks in advance John
I can garantee that it's not wicking up from below. As I get further up the wall later I'll know better how it is getting in but it appears to be wind driven. No backpriming, they were laid up and then painted.
Like I say, I've never dealt with painted cedars before but in a lot of other dedars, I've never seen one like this.
maibecs are Canadian company the is common in the NE. I'm pretty sure there stain is the Cabots because that is the colour chart I was refered to for custom colours.
Excellence is its own reward!