Problem: bolt block holdown placement

Existing 2×4 wall. Plans call for 48″ (width) shear panels at both ends of the wall, with HTT16 holdowns at the ends of each shear panel. Three of the four holdowns present no problems. But the fourth holdown, at the far end of the wall does present a problem. The problem is that right where the bolt would go through the holdown there is an existing anchor bolt. What would you do? The holdown is required at both ends of the shear panel. Can it be moved over at one end? If so, would I then have to extend the other end of the shear panel over by the same number of inches so that it’s still 48″ as spec’d? Any ideas as to how you’ve dealt with this would be appreciated.
Barbara
Replies
Use the existing anchor bolt to tie down the HTT16.
Take the nut and washer off the existing bolt, drop the tie on and replace the nut. If the bolt is too short (it shouldn't be, but might) you can use a connector nut and another length of threaded rod to get some length. This type of tie has to be down on the plate. If the connector interfers you can change ties to the HDQ8 holdown which can be installed off the plate - to a point. The HDQ8 also has a higher tension rating.
The anchor bolt that's in the way is 1/2" diameter, and the HTT16 takes a 5/8" bolt. So we can't do it that way. The building inspector told us that since it's a retrofit job, we have to hire an engineer to come out here and do a pull test on all the holdowns, so we have to get it right.
So would you suggest just installing two more studs as close to the end as possible and putting the HTT16 on at that point? Same question as in my original post.
Since the building inspector has reqired you to hire an engineer for testing purposes, any info you gain here might not be applicable.
I build in a non-seimic but high wind zone area and there are other methods of tiedowns recognized.
If the offending 1/2" anchor passes the pull test and the engineer agrees, you could eliminate the HTT16, apply a coupling nut and extend a 1/2" all thread rod through the top plates, add a 3" washer and a nut and call it done.
If they insist on 5/8" anchors. then drill the appropriate hole near the 1/2" anchor and epoxy in a 5/8" all thread and extend it through the top plates.
Epoxied anchors are very good as long as the hole is properly wire brushed and cleaned. Blow out the dust. The engineer will have all the data you need for this application plus his signature/stamp on the plans gets you a pass from the inspector.
Very good solutions Ralph. I really thank you for taking the time to respond.
Barbara