About 10 years ago I bought a 6″ Jointer. I believe it’s a Delta.
I wasnt’ paying attention and after I purchased it and did some work with it I realized the rear table is NOT adjustable.
As you all know the rear table must be set at the same height as the knives. If it’s not then there are problems.
This is a very poorly designed machine as it’s difficult to get the knives set to the proper height.
I would not recommend anyone purchasing a jointer which does not have an adjustable rear table.
Agree?
Replies
Nope. I won't agree.
You set the knives to the infeed table +- a few .oo1s.
If you have an adjustable infeed, some moron WILL tweak it, and Viola, you have Viola's.
So , either ya have jack screws on the cutter head ( which are easy) or ya have a friction jib. Thems like a magnet to hold the knife up.
I have had a slew a of jointer set ups in my past, and yer point is well taken, but easily surmountable with patience.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
You set the knives to the infeed table +- a few .oo1s.
Yeah? My infeed table goes up and down a full quarter inch (depending on what this moron wants for depth of cut) after I've set the knives to the outfeed table. But I've found that the knives need to be proud of the outfeed table a bit. I use a steel rule, on edge, and set the knives to move it about 3/16" when rotated. 3 gib screws/knife.
Clearly, the infeed and outfeed need to be in parallel planes or it's gonna be interesting. My tables have an adjustment on each corner. Fortunately, it never gets out of whack.
As I never move my outfeed table, I don't understand the problem with a fixed one (mine isn't), assuming the knives can be set to it. My 12" jointer has the only rack and pinion system for moving either table away from the cutterhead that I've seen. Far as I can tell, it's only for repouring the babbitts. Or finger removal. PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Tom, I wasn't calling anyone in particular a moron ( esp. you)..but I did a stint in a shop at a Highschool as an instructor for a night skool..enter a moron who grabbed the wrong knob.
Leveling and shimming the dovetail ways, is best left for someone who really understands geometry of the cutter head and co planer surfaces.
My POS jointer is fixed, my knives are on screws, I do ythe same to adjust the hieght..a "tad" high from infeed , gives a sprung joint..IMO that is much better in the glue up afterlife.
More importantly, is the wearing of knives and the eventual concavity that will occur, I like to skew the fence and use the whole width of the knives..does two things, even wear and a cleaner cut.
If the guy just noticed this problem in 10 yrs, well, that is not really a problem is it? Must not be loving the jointer enough. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Thank you guys and I appreciate your comments and suggestions.
For fine woodworking and cabinet making the knives need to be set at a height equal to the rear table.
If the rear table is set below the knife height, this results in the jointer making a "notch" cut at the end of the board.
If the rear table height is higher than the knives, the result a "taper" is cut into the board.
The knives must be set at the exact height of the rear table.
Agree?
Nope. I set em a TAD higher....here is a method.
Seta freshly cut straight pc of 1x3 centered over the cutter head, with the outfeed table at zero,rotate the cutter to just KISS the straight edge, and move it forwrd a bit..I mark the travel with a pencil line to the throat...
set all 2, 3 or 4 knives to move the stick the SAME distance from TDC ( top dead center)..in relation to infeed/out feed.
Now if ya wannna get real fancy and bald from pulling hair out, mess with that few bolts that hold the infeed table in parrallel to the outfeed...winding sticks and thin brass shims are in yer future..I'd leave it alone..setthe knives as close as you can get..if you DO have a "snipe" ruff yer stuff long and re end cut it prior to joinery..I do it all the time by habit. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
In addition, all knives must be in plane from end to end..(check the grind with a reliable straight edge) and if you knick a blade on insertion, ( it happens) you might can slide it a CH left or right to not line up with the OTHER nick...on a screw adjustable knife this is often not doable....break out the stones and lessen the damage.
If you can't measure a CH, just go away. LOL Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
just to be on the safe side I would go with a red one
Red or black? Quite the difference I've found.
Hey, I can do moron as well as anybody. Don't ask how many O rings it took to finally get the new ($200 !!!!!) hydraulic hose into my Cat without a leak. Had to use a come-along to bend the damn hose. Real easy to get the O ring out of the groove, which you can't see until the geyser starts. Then there's a tail hanging out. Wouldn't have been so bad if the hydraulic system didn't take 22 gallons of oil, which had to be drained (as much as possible) before disassembly. Now I've gotta dig up and remove a bit of dirt to keep the client's neighbor happy.
I like skewing the fence too. And periodically change it accordingly. No dovetails on the jointer here, too old. I never quite trusted them anyhow.
Bought my jointer 2 yrs before I had a building for it. Sat in the woods under a tarp. But it was so cheap at auction I couldn't resist. Had gold pin striping under the crud. And a door labeled "Tool Box" under the tables. Somewhere around 1500 lbs. Didn't bother to bolt it down.
So you don't adjust your infeed table to change depth of cut? Still trying to get a mind wrap on the situation.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Mine is fixed. I have jack screws on the head.
I am still waiting for the reast of the bearings..andan explo view manual.
Sounds like you pulled a Valdez there Tom..LOL Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Bought my jointer 2 yrs before I had a building for it. Sat in the woods under a tarp. But it was so cheap at auction I couldn't resist.
heh heh
Bwaa!
be something
r u a feckless dastard?
he he he he he he he he he he he he he he
Even better... it was in this building when it went down. The nearby old safe caught the beam that woulda smacked the outfeed table. Didn't bother the safe at all, which was filled with the expensive little stuff that might wander off.
Then there's that 42" capacity 3-drum sander that's still sitting at the bottom of the driveway. Rollback that brought it here didn't have the guts to get that 11000 lbs up here. Only recently have I had anything to pick it up with. Building's ready. Needs 8'x9' of floor. Pretty sure I can get it in there (bottom floor of the building with the translucent panels).
When're you coming to play?
Or are you still busy playing with your doors?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
the doors.
Roar!
think I'll build a shed.
be o'gawd did I say that again?
r u a feckless dastard?
think I'll build a shed.
Only one? Or is it gonna be 4 story like I was dumb enough to do?
Wait! They haven't been outside in the woods for a couple of yrs yet. No hurry....PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
ya, they are all indoors but spread out in 3 different locations.
I call them building panels.
I do need to turn the side porch into a cook's kitchen with a 15 ft ceiling. hmmmm
be creative and damn the barnacles... Full Speed Ahead!
r u a feckless dastard?
Correction.
I wasn't the moron (this time). Turns out the guy who made up my hydraulic hose left a steel cylinder, about 5" long, inside the hose. Apparently it's a tool that he forgot. Gee, plug up the hose and wonder why the O rings failed.... I thought it was my fault.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
The good news is that it probably didn't ruin my hydraulic pump (~$1500). The Cat dealer was apologetic, but I don't yet know if they're going to compensate me for my $120 lost material (mostly oil) and 2 days' time. When I pointed out that the fitting that housed the O ring was now deformed, the mechanic said it was "my" fitting. Fortunately the head parts guy saw it differently. $90 for a new one, in tomorrow.
Then there's the client's neighbor who's apoplectic about my oil spills... Unlikely I'll be talking to her again. Took a fire extinquisher over today to deal with her obnoxious dog. If she won't dog train, I will.
Seems that I just mentioned to somebody here that if you own an old tractor you need to expect to get greasy occasionally. Unfortunate when you get additional help in the form of incompetent mechanics.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
There is nothing wrong with your jointer. Set the knives to the outfeed table or just a tad above it. Place a stick on the outfeed table with the stick over hanging the cutter head. Turn the cutter head by hand. The stick should advance 1/16" to 1/8".Do this on each end and all knives. If the stick advances too far the knives are too high.If the stick does not advance the knife is low. The adjustable outfeed table is one more thing to go out of adjustment. It comes in handy for tapering and nothing else I can think of.I have my jointer for 30 years and never adjusted the outfeed table.
mike