I added over 3 inches to the front of my door jambs when I built a wall out to cover cement. I left the door in place. Now, when I close the door, the latch hits wood for the first couple of inches until it hits the striker plate that is now in the center of jamb. It looks to me that I need some type of metal piece in front of the striker plate for the latch to slide on until the door closes enough for the latch to hit the striker plate. Without a metal piece, the latch would dig into the door jamb extention with repeated closures of the door. Ideas/advice would be appreciated.
Replies
I'm doing a reno that required 8" thick frames for the theatre room. I had to add in 3½" to the front of the frame. My door did not mark at the frame, but I can understand how it might.
I added a reveal to the point where the 2 pieces met of 1/8" and there was no interferance. It took some work on the table saw, but, what the hay, that's what I bought it for.
Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada
I've remedied such situations with a custom-made brass striker. You can find suitable materials at various places (HD, Lowe's, Sears, etc.). A little fine hacksaw or bandsaw work, some filing, some shaping around a dowel or whatever if desired, drill and countersink some holes, and, viola!
Sounds to me like the ideal solution would be to move the door an inch or so in the direction required to eliminate that positive friction you've got there. rg
If the latch is just hitting the jamb you can file or grind a small portion off the latch.If you have to take a lot off you would be better off morticeing a piece of 1/16" thick brass on the jamb. Epoxy would hold it without screws.
mike
There are factory made extended strikes available if the marking is within maybe 1-1/2" of closed. A good hardware should have them.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You can get strike extensions at hardware or building supplies. I have seen them up tp 3"