Proper install of fir bboard ext.ceiling

Having a problem with one of our trim carpenters – installed a 4 1/4 fir
beadboard exterior ceiling, just pinned every 3 or 4 rafters – so 1 pin every 3-4 feet.
Ceiling partially came down today – he said was because of expansion – I say it was not installed correctly nor any construction adhesive used.
Would like comments on the proper install technique for beadboard ceiling (in Chicago).
Edited 12/13/2004 6:54 pm ET by Hank
Replies
Assuming this is t&g groove material... the tongues should be stapled to every rafter, using 1/4" crown x 2" long galvanized staples from a gun. The staples can be shot at a 45 degree angle thru the tongue of each piece, so most of the fasteners will be concealed. You'll need to face-nail the first piece at the wall (nails near the groove side, then staple the tongue side and continue to the second piece). You'll also need to face nail the last 1-2 pieces at the far wall, as it gets hard to angle the gun in to shoot staples thru the tongue.
Regarding glue, you might put something like a dab of adhesive caulk on the rafters where the staple will go, but I would be careful about gluing across the entire back of a piece, because it wants to expand and contract with the seasons and the glue may restrain it to the point where it cracks instead.
One pin every 4 feet is not enough.
What he just said.
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I put up a beadboard porch ceiling (about 12' x 30') here in Minneapolis about 16 years ago. It was nailed through the tongue of each plank to each rafter, but I didn't use any glue. It's holding up fine.
I think your guy needs to come back and nail it up right.
I got a bone to pick over your use of the term, trim carpenter.
This guy is a hack, not a trim carpenter. Please don't insult all the practitioners of that noble craft by lumping him in with them.
If he were working for me and I found him in the middle of doing it that way, I would politely ask him, "What the duch do you think you are doing up there, installing a wood cieling or waving at the spiders? Go back and pin it on every rafter and keep pinning it on every rafter."
As for you, why do you need backup? The failure of the cieling is prima facii evidence that his method is a total failure and that he doesn't know his thumb from his thumb. Lotta guys named Larry and Daryl there, Hank? Take charge and charge ahead. leave the loseer behind - after he learns to do it right and fixes his flop up.
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Yeah, regarding glue - first off, the reason t&g is so effective a fastening method is you nail through the tongue and the groove of the next board holds that edge in the same plane, but allows the board to expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes. I'm pretty sure David mentioned that. This is true for t&g ceilings, hardwood flooring, cardecking, siding, whatever. It's time tested and proven, that's enough for me.
Now. I can see where you'd think "hmmmm, a bead of construction adhesive would help here". And, truth be told, with the flexible glue available today, it probably wouldn't hurt. But I think it's a waste of time and money. A couple hundred years of toe nailed t&g materials standing up just fine, through all types of weather and neglect is all I need to know.
Nail it. Every rafter. 6d nails, galvys if outdoors or in high humidity climate or room, 8d if nailing through drywall into joists/rafters (some places require type X drywall as a way of limiting fire spread from one floor into the rafters or ceiling/2nd floor joists).
Thanks for backing us up piffin, I saw a few of those types lately they had a Black and Decker corded, and jig saw, and the rest were the GCs tools. But he's the jackie that will only pay $16 an hour, his problem.
Do you really mean pins, as from a pin nailer. These are not structural nails. Traditional installation is to nail through the tongue as everyone has said. Nail every joist or rafter. Cut ends to land on joist or rafter. Don't use adhesive, it will need to move.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match