Can someone tell me what is so wrong with nailing trusses to interior walls? I know engineers will have a coronary -(uplift and improper deflection issues) as well as building inspectors – but I have been working for a builder that has done so for at least the past ten years, and still have not seen any ill effect. No drywall damage, no stress cracks, nothing? I apologize if this issue has already been addressed.
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That's a new one on me. Every house I have ever framed or seen framed has had parts nailed to the trusses. Haven't had a problem.
I did a thread on truss uplift a while back that may offer some useful information. Unfortunately the links are outdated, so none of them work.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=24607.1
The problem with nailing the trusses to the walls is that if the truss decides it's gonna go up, something has to give. Either the nails will pull out or the wall will be lifted up.
If someone has gotten by with this for a long time, they've likely just been lucky. That doesn't mean they'll ALWAYS be lucky.
And it certainly doesn't mean it's a good idea.
I think that much of the problem of truss uplift is due to extreme temperature and moisture differences in cold climates. If you are not in a climate with temperature extremes this is not a problem.
It probably would never hurt if you are just using a couple of toe nails to fasten the bottom chord; they will just pull out if the truss lifts. We have had truss uplift in every house where trusses have been used. The only problem is a few cracks which are minimized by the use of clips for the ceiling edges.
If you have not been having a problem, you probably won't in the future. This problem is not a new one.
I agree.The truss lift occurs and the toenails get pulled out of the wall or get pulled through the truss. There are millions of houses that are done like that and it just works. Technically, you don't really need any nails holding those wall in place because the interior finish components will lock them in place. The toenails are a "temporary" bracing system and could theoretically be removed after drywall. I would fully expect the engineers to tell me I'm crazy for saying that but reality has proven me right many times. Of course we have Simpson coming to our rescue on another "problem" that isn't a problem. They'll sell you some expensive connectors that take significantly more time to install. Then, the inspectors will have something to inspect. The builders will have to spend more for materials so they make up for it by reducing the carpenters budget! It's just another one of those wasted moments in a carpenters life....sigh.... Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Jim: I will have to agree with you on this.
We have always nailed trusses to interior walls with no problems.
I have heard of uplift, but have never experienced it.
Here in Califonia, it's in the blue prints with the simpson hold down drawn in. I cannot figure the reasoning, but the BI looks for that like it holds the universe together.
I saw it done on T.V. that way...
The steel stud people have a solution to this problem. They have an extra deep channel [2"] with slots in it [1/4" bu 1 1/2"]. This will hold the walls in place yet still allow vertical movement. Don't fasten too tight!
~Peter
I appreciate everyone's input. You all have shed a little more light on what I believe may be a non-problem. I live in an area of the country that has little regulation on truss installation. Like I said no problems so far. I am surprised that there has not been any comments from the other side of the fence though. Keep the comments coming - thanks again.
The only serious problem that I ever heard about truss uplift was when the issue first came to light more than twenty years ago when a forensic engineer was brought in to solve a puzzle.
A couple of years before the homeowner had discovered a crack at the ceiling at the wall running down the middle of the house. Being a cautious person she called an engineer who, after looking at the problem, recommended that the connections between the trusses and the wall be reinforced.
The next winter the woman noticed a crack at the floor level and once again call the engineer who recommended tying the wall to the floor framing and the columns in the basement.
The following winter the floor of the basement cracked and heaved around the column footings. This time the engineer recommended that the entire basement floor be removed, that the footings be replaced and a new floor poured.
At this point the woman got a second opinion. The new guy reasoned that the footings and wall were fine until the truss connections were made and that the truss must be moving up to cause the problem. He removed the truss-wall connectors, banged the sheetrock down near the wall and retaped the joints. The problem was solved.
Do you have any more info about the steel studs. A link maybe? Thanks for the info.
Well, I'm glad I'm good for something...
You don't list anything in your profile so I don't know where you are... Perhaps you could Google "steel studs" and get lots of info. There is one site that has all kinds of dope about how to read the codes printed on the pieces. Like part of the number will give you the thickness in mils [1/1000's] and the co-responding gauge. The thicker guage [>20] you can build a house out of it. You need self-drilling, fine thread screws for that but you can get them at the Home Depot.
So just Google and select something like "association" or "institute".
~Peter