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I just received the new copy of FHB and the article about the artist’s “Copper Clad” Studio. While I don’t care for the look of the studio, the idea of using copper on part of the exterior walls of our home greatly appeals to me. I am interested in how it holds up – particularly in an acid-rain environment (we have quite a problem in this area where many builders are going with stainless steel nails). I would also like to find out where various types of copper siding might be available for sale. And…can anyone tell me how long a span of time it takes for copper to develop a verdis-gris finish? Is there any regular treatment of the metal necessary over time?
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Replies
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Karla,
I saw the same article but I am not convinced "it costs just a little more than vinyl" as the subtitle states (no offense Andy). I've used some copper gutter and small sheets before and its big bucks compared to other materials (at least in my area).
I do know with the weather conditions here in Florida, that green patina will begin to develop in a few months.
Mike
*con - $$$$$$$!
*Rein, Yeah, there is no way that could be installed for $2.00 per square foot as the article mentions. I LOVE FHB but I think someone was misquoted some numbers there.Mike
*I've noticed that where ever water runs through copper guttering and downs onto the grass a big area of the grass dies out.BJ
*Karla, If you can afford it you won't have to do anything special to the copper. Be aware that copper does not always go green,sometimes it takes on a dark red brown color like a penny does. Skip ps Saw Barbi Benton's house on TV and she used copper on the outside, of course it was also about 25 thousand square feet just so you know the market you are getting into.
*Copper sheet or coil sells by the pound. 16OZ copper would be suitable for roofing and siding too I suppose weights (surprise) 16OZ per square foot. Last time I bought some it was $3 pound. A bit more than vinyl? Joe H
*cost asside, I'm intrigued by the lack of maintenance and resistance to mold/pests. This structure is an outbuilding in the woods; where moss, mold, etc... likes to grow. the copper is toxic to such growth and I would think virtually maintenance free. I would worry however about using it in extremely tight structures in cold climates, because it seems like a vapor barrier on the outside of the building(ie threat of building up water vapor on the inside of the copper). perhaps a vented wall on furring strips would take care of that. I havent' read the article yet. Maybe they address these issues?
*I would be concerned about the "verdis gris" (corrosion) leaching down on to lower materials, such as stone or brick on the foundation, and discoloring it. I believe I've seen copper roofing/gutters do this. Anyone have experience with this?
*Have you considered steel? Standing seam, Cor-Ten, Kynar coated? Probably cheaper than copper. Could be a pain to detail around openings though.Eric
*The speed at which copper turns depends on the pollutants (or lack of) in the local atmosphere. I installed my first copper roof about twelve years ago and it is just now showing some verdigris. I installed a copper roof several miles from a coal-burning power plant last year and it is showing green already. The reason copper lasts as long as it does is the verdigris is actually a self-protecting coating. If acid rain removes the verdigris, then the lifespan will be diminished. I don't know of any sources for copper siding other than a custom sheet metal fabricater. I often use copper siding on dormers in conjuntion with copper roofs or where access for regular maintanence is difficult. The price of copper fluctuates somewhat. I buy quite a bit at a time, but the last I purchased about two weeks ago cost me $1.31 a pound. I also get about $.50 a pound when I recycle my scrap. When was the last time someone wanted to buy vinyl siding cut-offs?
*All of you who have received your latest issue of FHB, and have read the article concerning the copper clad studio...any comments? I posted in the "FEEDBACK ON FHB Magazine" category.Thought my comments would stir up a healthy debate...so far, only 1 comment received. If you get a chance, please check out the post and let me know what you think?If you haven't read the post, the gist of it is...I think the studio stinks! Didn't care for the design, or the materials used.Davo.
*I'll make one comment here. An architect wrote the article. A different architect designed the structure. You chastised the wrong guy.OK, another comment. If you had not posted here, that you had posted there, then the majority of the folks here, who do not normally read anything there, would not hear what you had to say over there.
*Last I bought copper, it went for $2/lb. Using 16 oz copper, that makes the material cost is $2/sq. ft, or a little more. Price fluctuates, but if at the time of construction, copper was at, say, $1.30/lb, I think the cost in the article isn't far off base. Andy
*OK, copper is expensive. But consider long term cost effectiveness. The copper on the Cathedral of the Intercession in Moscow was replaced in the early 1980's, after being in service a little over 520 years.-- J.S.
*I'm not sure how this copper was attached, but I think that if you had a 10 ft. or 12 ft. brake, it would be a simple matter to bend interlocking horizontal joints that concealed the fasteners. Why not 500 years?Andy
*i Why not 500 years? Acid rain, which did not exist until fairly recently. Most of the old cathedral roofs were lead, not copper, which is resistant to just about everything.Jeff
*You might want to think about thieves tearing off what they can when you are not around, and recycling it for drug money.
*Chris, Ran into this problem on a copper roof above a white brick house. An unatttractive lesson for the owners, architect and myself. Next job arch, specified lead coated copper. haven't checked that job out lately but was wondering if the lead would wear off. Will try to get by to check it out. Skip
*What about dents? Aluminum siding will look great next to copper. Allthough if you are willing to provide a solid backing, I guess anything is possible, but not low cost.
*b WBA At Your ServiceThis one definitely intrigued me because my first glance at this article left me laughing at the "costs a little more than vinyl" headline. This post prompted me to take a closer look at the photos and text to understand how someone could take an expensive and unfinished product like sheet copper and inexpensively attach it to a house. The author's drawing on page 71 shows the sheets of copper to be blind nailed. If you look closely at the photo on page 69, you can see puckers every 16" or so at the bottom edge of every sheet. Blind nailing ? I don't think so. It appears that the sheets were all face nailed across the bottom edges and also in the middle of the sheets. The drawing shows an overlap of 4" on the sheets with no interlock at the bottom edges. At the 2$+ sq.ft. price, I don't think the installers could afford to even hem the bottom edges of each sheet. It looks like the material just came off the back of the truck and was simply nailed to snapped lines with a simple overlap at the butt joints and a stainless (?) outside corner was made to cover the corners. Andy, I don't see where you would even need a brake to do what they did on this job. Whether you like the appearance of it or not, it certainly is a creative and cost conscious use of a material.
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I just received the new copy of FHB and the article about the artist's "Copper Clad" Studio. While I don't care for the look of the studio, the idea of using copper on part of the exterior walls of our home greatly appeals to me. I am interested in how it holds up - particularly in an acid-rain environment (we have quite a problem in this area where many builders are going with stainless steel nails). I would also like to find out where various types of copper siding might be available for sale. And...can anyone tell me how long a span of time it takes for copper to develop a verdis-gris finish? Is there any regular treatment of the metal necessary over time?