Hello,
I’m an architect (in Ohio) designing a wine cellar addition to a residence … and we are wanting to use (most likely?) horizontal redwood or cedar as our exterior material on the project … a colored stain or paint is highly undesirable. Conceptually, I am wanting to create a “case of wine” by literally wrapping the exterior walls in the same material wine is shipped in … but the obvious fear of weathering, turning grey, etc., seems to be a likely result. What is the best clear finish (oil, urethane, varnish, etc.) to use on either of these woods to (for lack af a better description) “keep that fresh new wood look”? Would another species of wood be a better solution? “Marine grade” products/finishes seem an obvious possibility? Teak oil was suggested, but manufacturer’s data suggests denser woods (teak, rosewood, mahogany) which are likely more expensive.
Help! Thanks!
Replies
For ease of maintenance you'll find Pen-o- fin a good choice. Reapplied is a yearly duty in your location.
Do not even think of varnish unless you want a big problem down the road.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Thanks for the input/help! Out of curiosity what are "the problems down the road" associated with a varnish? Major maintenance (sanding, re-aaplication, etc.)?
Yes, as in scraping and reapplying. Any film finish will need constant up keep by 'toothing' the previous coats prior to new applications. This is to be expected with a film coating. An oil that penetrates the wood and does not create a barrier film will often re adhere without the toothing required.
Some penetration of polmerized finishes will also exhibit the reluctance to self seal..in other words, they don't stick to each other very well.
With out going into a treatise of long oil vs short oil polymers, in this case as you describe, I'd opt for an easily repairable oil.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Hey Spere...is Cabot Oil Stain (linseed oil based) the kind that doesn't need re-toothing?