FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Prying trim

BigMish | Posted in General Discussion on September 2, 2008 04:49am

What methods/tools do you all use to pry trim that you are going to reinstall?

<!—-><!—-> <!—->

Here is what I did:

  1. hammered a putty knife into the seem between the trim and the wall just next to one of the nails
  2. pried it up a bit to create a small gap
  3. inserted a small 6†pry bar into the gap
  4. using the pry bar, pried out the first nail by prying the trim away from the wall
  5. moved down the trim repeating 3 until all the nails were out

<!—->  <!—->

This worked fine except for step one which slightly damaged both the trim and the wall. Is there a better tool or technique for this?

<!—->  <!—->

Thanks, Mischa

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Dave45 | Sep 02, 2008 05:12pm | #1

    That's pretty much what I do except that I begin with a 5-in-1 painters tool followed with an 8" flat bar.

    I try to start in the least noticeable place and not try to pry it too far, too fast. I get it started, then go hand over hand along the length of the trim prying it a little further with each pass. When I can get a grip on it, I apply light pressure with my hand and use the flat bar to persuade it past the tight spots.

    Be careful with mitered casings that may have been "pinned together" with a nail thru an edge. You may need to loosen both of the mitered pieces to get them apart without tearing out a corner.

    Don't forget to score any paint along the edge of the trim before you start prying. Peeling off large chunks of latex paint is a real PITA. - lol

  2. DanH | Sep 02, 2008 05:20pm | #2

    Get a sharper putty knife. I generally use a stiff knife that's been sharpened to a modest edge.

    In science it often happens that scientists say, "You know that's a really good argument; my position is mistaken," and then they would actually change their minds and you never hear that old view from them again. They really do it. It doesn't happen as often as it should, because scientists are human and change is sometimes painful. But it happens every day. I cannot recall the last time something like that happened in politics or religion. --Carl Sagan
  3. stevent1 | Sep 02, 2008 05:30pm | #3

    You can also use a drift punch and drive the finish nails through the trim.

    I start by cutting any caulk with a utility knife.

    Chuck S

    live, work, build, ...better with wood
  4. DanH | Sep 02, 2008 05:37pm | #4

    Another point: When using the pry bar, place the putty knife behind it against the wall, and pry against the knife. This keeps the bar from denting the plaster.

    In science it often happens that scientists say, "You know that's a really good argument; my position is mistaken," and then they would actually change their minds and you never hear that old view from them again. They really do it. It doesn't happen as often as it should, because scientists are human and change is sometimes painful. But it happens every day. I cannot recall the last time something like that happened in politics or religion. --Carl Sagan
  5. Shep | Sep 02, 2008 05:42pm | #5

    I do similar, except I like to use a wide spackle knife against the wall to pry against. It spreads the pressure on the sheetrock, so I don't leave holes in the wall. When I use the wide knife, I can use my WonderBar to get more leverage to pop the trim off.

    I also like to work my way down the wall loosening the trim a little at a time, instead of trying to get one section free all at once. I find I can get the trim off in one piece much more easily that way. Especially on older, brittle trim.

    And like someone already said, its important to cut the caulk along the top of the trim. That stuff can really hold things together. 

  6. Piffin | Sep 02, 2008 07:22pm | #6

    I cut the paint seam first with a utility knife, then slide a thin flexible putty knife in there first. As soon as I read the word 'hammered' if flinched knowing that you had bruised wood

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  7. MSA1 | Sep 02, 2008 10:09pm | #7

    I use a tack puller to start. It still mars a little but its not bad if you're careful.

    The main thing to remember here is go slow. Cutting back the paint may help too.

     

    Family.....They're always there when they need you.

  8. huplescat | Sep 03, 2008 03:23am | #8

    I relish the challenge of getting old trim off in pristine condition.  All of the above make very good points, but the guy who suggested cutting the caulk bead and pin punching the nails back thru the work was on the money.

    But you need a good 3/32 punch.  The ones by Baltimore (sold at Lowes) are total ####.  Craftsman makes a marginally beter punch and they replace it when it breaks. But the best are the blue ones... not sure, but I think Dasco.  They will outlast 3 or 4 of the others but get 2 anyway, because you're likely to break one before you get the feel of it.

    Its relatively easy to suss out nails in clear finish trim.  If its painted shine a strong light on a long angle across the work.  Casing trim nails won't be on layout, but baseboard and crown will... so once you find something there you can look on 16" centers for more.

    You won't find them all, but every nail you do find and punch back thru makes for a better pry off.  When you get the trim off lever any remaining nails thru from the back with a pair of nippers or vice grips.

    1. DanH | Sep 03, 2008 03:30am | #9

      I wouldn't argue that I do "fine carpentry", but I favor taking the nails out through the front. To avoid splitting the wood face when tapping them out I place the piece of trim face-down on a sacrificial block and give the nail point a few taps. This prevents splitting, and you can renail through the same holes.
      In science it often happens that scientists say, "You know that's a really good argument; my position is mistaken," and then they would actually change their minds and you never hear that old view from them again. They really do it. It doesn't happen as often as it should, because scientists are human and change is sometimes painful. But it happens every day. I cannot recall the last time something like that happened in politics or religion. --Carl Sagan

      1. Shep | Sep 03, 2008 04:15am | #10

        If tapping nails out thru the front works for you, keep doing it. I haven't had much luck with that method.

        I bought a pair of Extractor pliers a year or so ago. They make pulling the nails from the back very easy.

        And I'd rather not renail thru the old holes. They're frequently worn a bit, and I don't think the wood is held as tightly. If you pull thru the back, the old holes are still filled, and you "just" have to fill the new ones.

  9. Roscopicotrain | Sep 03, 2008 04:26am | #11

    When removing trim that has to be put back on I always make sure to cut any paint or caulking along the top and/or sides of the trim. When the entire area(room) is free I use a small furniture restoration bar and lightly pry only enough to get my larger furniture restortaion bar in. I've found the larger surface area better suited for removing trim. You will have far less trim to glue back together. I find the only time that ever happens to me with this method is with brittle old Fir. After I've removed the trim I pull the nails through the back of the trim with a dull pair of side cutters or chanel locks if the side cutters aren't doing the job. I prefer to pull the nail through instead of taking it out the face of the trim to avoid damaging the front of the trim. This method also leaves the original nail hole filled. I've also found that if the trim has been nailed exceptionally well and I'm having a great pains in removing it I'll use a pair of side cutters to cut the nails when I've pried the trim back far enough. I've seen six inch finish nails used to put baseboards and casings on.

    I keep a piece of half inch oak veneered plywood I use to pry against if I need to in my finishing tool bag. It's comes in handy when removing casing. I also pry from the mitre when removing casing. I've seen too many carpenters ruin casings because they didn't consider that a good deal of casings are nailed at the joints. Make sure you have enough to pry on. If you have too little you run the risk of cracking the casing.

    Lastly I would suggest using your ears. Most if not all the time you'll hear it cracking before it becomes a real problem that requires glue and clamping. Also pry on the meatier part of the trim. You'll have far less headaches.

    I bought my furniture restoration bars at Lee Valley. The part that pries is thinner than almost every other bar I've seen and very strong.

  10. User avater
    JeffBuck | Sep 03, 2008 04:50am | #12

    same that's been said.

     

    I prefer a 6" drywall knife.

    use the utility first to cut the caulk / paint line ...

     

    hammer in the drywall knife ... wiggle ...

    start with the little japanese cats paw / pry bar ...

     

    depending on the trim move up to a wonder bar, again ... prying against the drywall knife. If it's big fat old trim that's really stuck ... I'll slide a 12" drywall knife in behind the 6", and slowly but surely crank away.

    I also prefer to pull the nails evther thru ... and have them stuck in the wall ...

    or out the back with a pair of end nippers.

    then end nip them out of the wall.

     

    usually works ... sometimes no matter how careful ... U lose one.

    Jeff

        Buck Construction

     Artistry In Carpentry

         Pittsburgh Pa

    1. User avater
      Jeff_Clarke | Sep 03, 2008 04:53am | #13

      What DanH said ... plus you can cut through the finish nails with a hacksaw blade + handle to avoid having to pry the trim too far (if old / brittle).

      Jeff

      1. Shep | Sep 03, 2008 05:44am | #14

        I have, on occasion, used a recip saw with a metal blade to cut the nails once I've wiggled it loose a bit.

        Usually on wider, older base where too much prying would break the trim, or on wide casing I want to save. It does take a little bit of a light touch, but it's not that hard to develop the feel.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Making the Move to Multifamily

A high-performance single-family home builder shares tips from his early experience with two apartment buildings.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Guest Suite With a Garden House
  • Podcast Episode 688: Obstructed Ridge Vent, Buying Fixer-Uppers, and Flashing Ledgers
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding the Right Fixer-Upper
  • Keeping It Cottage-Sized

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data