PT’d or standard pine posts if painted?
Hello,
Have a client that needs his three 4×4 support posts on his porch replaced. I was thinking it would be nice to switch them out with a more decorative turned post.
Assuming it’s gonna be painted anyways – any reason not to use regular non-treated posts?
Of course, either way, the new posts will be installed on a spacer of some sort to avoid direct contact with the cement.
Seems like some of the PT lumber is dripping wet and would require a fair amount of seasoning before you’d want to paint it.
What do ya think?
JT
Replies
You might consider looking into fiberglass structural columns. PermaCast is one and there are others.
They take paint well and you don't have to worry about decay. They cost a bit more than wood columns, but the labor is pretty light, so cost to your client might be about a wash.
And they come in an assortment of sizes, lengths and shapes, both round and square with a selection of decorative caps and bases. Your local yard should be able to give you the specifics and order them for you.
Edited 4/25/2006 1:43 am by Notchman
Pressure treated wood tends to check, crack and warp even after drying. It also doesn't hold paint very well. At least that's my experience with the older CCA lumber. I don't know about the new ACQ stuff, but it's probably the same.
So, if you can get away without using PT, that's what I would do.
-Don
Pressure treated anything does not take paint well but you can stain it with a solid color stain and this will work.
My preferance is the fiberglass as it does seem to be the most low maintanance option.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
The threat of rot is limited to only those areas which potentally remain wet...top and bottom. make sure these areas have moisutre breaks, and eliminate wood to wood contact where possible, and then go with non pt wood.
Builders are relying far too much on PT. Suppliers are aggressivley marketing this product because it offers them an opportunity to earn the much vaunted"value added" income. More often than not non pt wood is as good as pt wood. It's all about moisture control, eliminiate bulk water, condensation and ground contacts and the playing field is near even.
Beware painting any green wood (not below 12% m/c), as paint will not adhere as well as hoped. Also, do not paint wood unless you can cover the entire piece with a quality primer first, or moisture will penetrate into the wood and cause the paint to spall...pay special attention to end grain.
p.s. I'm still not sold on engineered materials, wood has proven itself, and we know how to mitigate its pitfalls...time will tell with all these "lifetime maintenance free" products. I sometimes think builders love 'em because they'll outlast their business...not the wood!
Good Luck, Glen in Canada
No reason in the world to use PT, nor any not to use pine.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Actually, PT can and does hold paint quite well, if it's handled properly. The end grain must be sealed, preferably with an alkyd primer. Now here's the rub, and probably why other posters have had trouble. Obviously, you can't paint the stuff when it's wet. So, you set it and come back in a few months to paint it after it's dried. That's all well and good, except that as little as two weeks in the sun destroys the lignins that hold together the wood fibers, with the added effect that the wood can't hold paint for more than a couple of years.
The solution is easy. Let it dry, then sand the surface with 60 or 80 grit paper, followed by immediate painting. Should stay painted for decades that way.
Andy
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