*
Anybody got any suggestions for good-quality pull-down stairs?
Brands? Styles? Things to watch out for? Do’s and don’ts?
Lessons learned the hard way?
I’ve got a set of attic trusses going up soon, 9′ ceiling, and need something of above-average quality to get the clients up to the bonus room. No space in the floor plan for fixed stairs of any type.
Dave
Replies
*
Well dave, about 6 yrs ago I purchased a set of heavy duty aluminum pull down stairs for my 10 ft gar. ceiling. Wider than avg., litewt and easy to manuever. Have hauled much stuff up/down them and they have held up. I might be able to get the manu. name somehow if you have trouble finding one. I imagine, like wood stairs, there's good ones and poor ones. Best of luck.
*A good quality metal set will feel more substantial under hoof. How much are you going to finish the bonus room? check with the local codes for access req, you might be surprised. If it's completly finished I beleive it has to have a real stair case, (at least in NC) also make sure the joists will stand heavy live and dead loads. I know this isn't what you asked for, but I've had to tell clients that "No you can't have a bedroom up there like you had planned, at least not one that will be inspected." Good Luck
*I agree with Calvin and Justus. I sprung the extra $25. for aluminum ones and have been happy with them. I max out the weight rating for wooden ones so I got the 300lb. metal and they feel strong underfoot.Mike
*I think that a company called 'Beseler' makes quality wood pull-down stairs.Jeff
*Any contact info for the metal ones would be much appreciated.Good tip, Justus. Is there a story behind "Running Pug?" Great name.Thanks, all.Dave
*Dave, I will try to find out the name of the manu. of the folding pull down alum. stairs. As Jeff points out, Bessler makes a comfortable sliding wood stair. Check them out if you have the head room above.
*Your client wants pull down stairs to access a bonus room? That's a new one on me. I wouldn't have spent the money on attic trusses without a stairway. On the other hand - This could be a good place for the in-laws to stay when they visit. Get them up there, then push the stairs up and don't let them out until morning..........(-:Justus1199 makes a good point - Have you checked to see what your local code says?
*Dave - if you change your mind to wood click here for Bessler Stair Co.Jeff
*To answer Dave's question, I used to have a friend who had this little pug dog named spazy, anyway whenever that dog got out of the house it would run around in a circle until it actually fell over in exhaustion. Anyone in this business who has come right up to a deadline knows where I got the name Running Pug Construction. I feel like that dog about every Friday. :)
*Here's one company that handles alum pull down stairs: http://www.wernerco.com/I looked through my records and on the stair itself and can not find the manuf. of the set in my garage. The local yard might be able to help w/name. email me if you wish.
*Roto.. the skylight company makes one.. my favorite is the top of the line wooden one distributed by Brosco....the stair company has the same initials as me..b MFS..Memphis Folding Stair...they are a southern mfr. with 3 different models... i think their top one is Imperial...very heavy-duty..here's a link...http://www.memphisfoldingstairs.com/the add on insulating panel is kind of bogus , though.. you can make a lot better one
*MFS Loc/Tread Ultimate, 350lb rating. Got one in my house, nice, but a bear to install...So, how do you guys put 'em in? I've put in at least 30 by nailing on the casing with the unit on the floor, then two people stick it in the hole, and nail the head and foot casing. Pull the string, get the stairs out of the way, go up a step ladder and shim and scew the frame all around.Last week I pulled the string on one of the light duty ones, that sucker pulled down all right...free fall from a 9' ceiling, whapped my hand 'n broke it. Six week vacation, anybody you want me to pester?
*1st: take it out of the box....push the unit up into the attic..screw a brace across the bottom of the opening , one at the head and one at the foot.. slide the unit onto the braces and shim and screw thru the frame into the rough opening framing..push it open and climb down.. close it up and case iteasier to say it than to do it....
*Thanks for all the links and info. No doubt I can come up with something these folks will be happy with.Billy, I'll keep that cautionary story in mind as I install these stairs, you can be sure. A broken anything is about the last thing any of us needs right now.Any other tips on installation would be much appreciated.Mike, if you're still thinking about ICF foundations, I'd say go for it. I think they're one of the best building materials going, especially for foundations.Two caveats; (1)figure out how much bracing the manufacturer recommends, double it, and then add a little more, and (2) I'd strongly recommend a line pump instead of a boom. The force of the concrete coming out of the boom can be a bit much if the operator isn't well experienced and attentive.Don't ask how I know this. Dave
*Ohhh, like the maufacturer recommends??? Sooo, how do you get the screws thru the frame with the steps up?
*.. i forget... but it was probably thru the head frame and foot frame...then the final screws after it was open......last one was a year ago....MFS... what else would i use ?
*Be very precise about the finished size of your RO;then screw 2 pcs. of 1x across the head and foot, making sure that the frame, not the plywood part,will sit on these 2 cleats.Push the unit up into the attic, after 1st taking the time to remove the 6-8 bolts holding the folding part of the stairs to the fixed portion--this helps with the weight but even better, allows you to work from below.After you have it setting on the cleats [again, be careful about the size of the RO so that 1 end doesn't accidently push off 1 of the cleats!], you can lower the stair and work on the screws/nails from a ladder, with plenty of light.Check it for square, shim where needed, and attach to the framing.Remove the cleats and case it; re-attach the folding stair part and trim the lower section to fit the height.Be careful to get the last section cut so it is fully extended when it is finished.That's it.PS--I believe you said you had a set of trusses going in? Whatever you do, don't even think about cutting one to fit in a wider set of stairs! That is an absolute no-no that you should never violate.
*I like the idea of taking off the folding part of the stairs, especially on the ones with 2x rails in a 10' ceiling. I've put a lot of these stairs in, and I abandoned the cleat method after I saw a couple of sets fall off the cleats. The problem is that all the stairs we see have 3/4" frames. The cleat works fine at the head where the hinge is, because there's a full 3/4" to bear on, at the foot however, sometimes there's less than 1/4". I've had to cut back the plywood door just to nail on the casing. So, I went to casing first...I think this ornery set had the door stiffener stuck in between the frame, so maybe I yanked it a little harder than normal.I've got two to put in after the holidays, and I think we'll remove the folding part, case, nail to the ceiling, and put up 4 dead men before I let someone else try to open 'em up. That's if anybody will still work with me...
*Must be hard typing with only one finger now, instead of two.b : )
*It was hard with two, now it's just a little slower...but, washin' my left armpit is hard...
*You noticing people wanting to stand off to your right, now, are ya ?b : )Happy Christmas and merry nog to ya 'snort.
*Whenever I'm bored, I destroy everything I have on my computer...I hope you had a merry noggin yerself. I gotta quit doing this...
*
Anybody got any suggestions for good-quality pull-down stairs?
Brands? Styles? Things to watch out for? Do's and don'ts?
Lessons learned the hard way?
I've got a set of attic trusses going up soon, 9' ceiling, and need something of above-average quality to get the clients up to the bonus room. No space in the floor plan for fixed stairs of any type.
Dave