I’ve just gotten the glass back into 4 sashes. The putty directions say wait 7-14 days before painting. Should I keep the sashes aside to set or would it be ok to re-install them, wait a few weeks then remove them again to paint? It’s snowy and cold out but they’d be protected from the weather behind the glass storm windows on the outside. They won’t get to stay quite as warm or dry there though as just sitting in the shop for a couple of weeks. What do you think? Thanks for everyone’s advice! 🙂
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They can be painted immediately IF you use a oil based paint and if this is the oil based glaziers putty.
The hard part is that it is still so soft that you might disturb it or leave brush marks showing, so you have to be gentle and let the pint flow on instead of pushing it.
That's my experience anyways.
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Whoa!! Now you've got me excited! The putty says it is made with soybean oil, paraffinic process oil and linseed oil. It also contains calcium carbonate and hydrous magnesium silicate.The directions say it must be painted over after it has skinned over and attained a firm set, approximately 7-14 days. It says to use an oil based primer and then an oil or latex based top coat.I have oil based primer and was planning on using Benjamin Moore exterior latex for the top coat. If I go ahead and use the oil based primer now, should I still then wait for a couple weeks before putting the latex top coat on? I'd really love to get the whole project wrapped up and done but I don't want sacrifice good results from being in a hurry.
You generally shouldn't wait more than about 48 hours between primer and top coat.
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Time to disagree. This time of year, oil is a slow cure and it absolutely NEEDS to be cured before top-coating. Even in summer with UV hitting it, 30 days is the top end not 48 hours.
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And the effective life of the primer won't even matter if you use a self-priming paint such as Duration. Just wipe off any water or dirt and paint away.
But the putty would need to skin and cure before starting with the Duration. The oil skin of the linseed in the putty will combine with the oil paint, but will act to prevent bonding with the latex if it doesn't cure first.
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Yes, agreed.
My comment was intended to be "additive" to yours concerning UV exposure on the primer.
If I was facing this same new glazing situation and winter was upon me, I"d just lay down a nice coat of primer and mount the windows. Come spring, I'd get out the Duration and finish the job. As a matter of fact, I've done just that on numerous occasions and never yet "lost" the glazing as a result of primer only over winter. (I wouldn't recommend putting the glazing out there without a skin of primer on it cause that can/will lead to dried-out/cracked glazing that won't likely last.)
Then again, I can look at primed-only glazing over winter and it doesn't really bother me. It would probably drive some folks nuts. Or if the house is up for sale, things would look better/more appealing with paint on the glazing.
Edited 12/22/2008 10:35 am ET by HootOwl
See? Azek stops need no primer..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I may try them one day.
Yeah, exactly what I'd do would depend on the job, time frame, type of customer or my house...
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If you paint now, wait until it is firm and tough before the finish coat. 7-14 days is about right in the cold if you put it back in. three days in a warm shop.
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You can put them back immediately. In cold weather you'll want to wait on the long side of the 7-14 day period for the glazing compound to set enough for painting. It won't be anywhere near "hard", but enough of the solvent should have evaporated to allow the paint to adhere.
We have been using Dap 33 for glazing.
This has a more synthetic quality which allows it to do a couple of things conventional putty doesn't. First it expands and contracts better while maintaining a bond to glass and wood and secondly it allows us to prime with oill based primer and follow-up with latex top coat next day if the weather conditions are right.
Piffin is right that this time of year 48 hours is questionable for linseed or oil putty. Try the DAP33 and you should see it firm up overnight and be ready for paint.
Jon
Russian saying
The putty directions say wait 7-14 days before painting.
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What type and brand of putty? If the directions say 7-14 days, they mean it - in a warm, heated dry shop.
If you prime too soon, the putty will tend to separate from the glass and /or wrinkle. If you paint too soon, you will end up re-doing the putty.
What the pros do is put a panel in the window opening until the sash is refurbished. Usually takes 4 weeks start to finish, due to drying time of the putty and paint.
I've never had the putty separate from the g;lass when using the primer too soon, but I have occasionally seen some wrinkling on the surface. Now I know why. But it is pretty seldom.Another thing to add on the subject for all the lurkers just getting ready to do this sort of thing is that the wood should be primed/sealed before using the putty to avoid separation from the wood muntin. I use a shellac based pigmented sealer for that 'cause it drys fast.
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I used a hardware store branded oil based primer on my muntins first and let it dry for a week or so. I'm going to give the putty a couple of days at least to see what happens and then try giving them a coat of the oil primer. If that goes well then I'll probably install the sashes for a couple of weeks, then take them out again for a latex top coat.
I've had old-timers say to prime the bare wood rebates in the sash and muntins with linseed oil.
then take them out again for a latex top coat.
Mind your ambient temps and dry/cure times on the latex or you'll be wasting your time or worse. If the latex freezes before it's ready for that, it won't last long.
Edited 12/22/2008 11:39 pm ET by HootOwl
the wood should be primed/sealed before using the putty to avoid separation from the wood muntin.
---Yes, definitely - otherwise the bare wood pulls the oils out of the putty and it doesn't cure properly.I like thinned penetrol as a sealer, but that's largely personal preference.