This was covered some years back, but I couldn’t figure out the right search terms to find it again.
What is currently recommended to seal the strainer in a sink to the sink? The traditional method is plumber’s putty, but it seems to me like in that old thread, the recommendation was to use a little bit of clear silicon caulk. Any pros and cons on the best method.
Replies
I still use plumbers putty , but then I am not a plumber.
Casey,
You need to use silicone on cultured marble sinks. On steel, iron, china, and stainless sinks, you can use either. I usually use the putty on those.
Bill
You need to use silicone on cultured marble sinks
Why?
Stain?
Yuppp... IIRC plumber's putty contains an oil that bleeds into the cultured marble (and other synthetic surfaces such as Corian, etc).PaulB
How long does it take for the stain to appear?
I used putty on a cultured marble sink some 12 years ago. I replaced the faucet and drain/pop up 6 months ago and did not see any staining. BTW the bowl and top are white, and were origanly purchased from Lowes or HD by the HO.
I have had to replace basket/strainers that were caulked in with silcone caulk. Most of the time they have to be cut out because the nut can not be removed from the bottom. Silicone will absolutely glue it so well that the only to get it off isto saw it in two. Even with two men and all the correct tools the drain gets destroyed.
Untill I get an install that specifally forbids the use of putty to set a drain in cultured marble top, I'll stick with the putty.
You may well be right Dave... just telling you what the rationale is. FWIW, I've encountered any number of synthetic counter and vanity tops, as well as Corian sinks that specifically say using putty voids the warrantee...
(pssst, I've done it once or twice myself. Don't tell anyone)PaulB
I haven't ever certified for installation of any of the Corian, Gibralter, or mirad of other synthetic materials. I might do an installation for myself one day, but I couldn't in conciousness charge a client for something I'm not certified or have the experience to do.
Your information is still a good thing to know. I can't tell you how many times I have been ask questions about things that I don't generally do, yet can give a reasonably correct answer to because of discussions on this forum.
Dave,As mentioned above, staining is one problem. I have seen a number of vanities that were cracking to bits at the drain hole due to interaction between putty and plastic. It may be that the sink you saw no issue with was a different formulation that is resistant to these effects. I do not know about the modern solid surface materials, and have not worked with sinks made from them.Like you, I prefer putty because it is reversible/servicable, while silicone done well is a b#### to remove.Bill
I use caulk, espeially if it's a white/colored sink or has a GD hanging under it. The putty seems to continue to creep until there's none left.
but I'm not a plumber
casey
I have switched to using only clear silicone. I have had too many strainers with putty go bad and start leaking.
In my own house the sink started to get a rotten smell. I replaced the strainer and siliconed the new one in and the problem was gone.
My plumber has told me they only use silicone
I agree with others that it is near impossible to get the strainer out once it hs been siliconed in.
Rich