I have to reproduce this post-rail-baluster arrangement.
The one on the right, going up the first flight.
The post has a cross section of 3-1/4 x 5-3/4, the rail is 2 x 5-3/4, and the balusters are 3/4 x 2-3/4. I am thinking of doing this as an assembly of all 3/4 cherry, with a couple core blocks of thick poplar.
The pic called BalustersSpacersBlocks shows how the baluster planks will stick up into the hollow core of the built-up rail. The bottom block is bolted through the landing tread to the stringer below. The upper block is there so the post-rail joint has a tie.
The pic called TiePlatesOn shows how the rail tie plates lap onto the upper block to make the rail-post joint. The post tile plates add some rigidity to the post-to-tread connection.
The pic Skinned shows the finished arrangement.
Here are the questions.
Is there an easier way to do this?
How are the balusters fastened to the treads?
Replies
Eccch!..why?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
In the context of the overall design, what would you put there instead?
Depends on the enduser..if it were Handicap or somesuch, I'd see a less visable or obtrusive rail..an open floor, with no constraints..go back to the wall, and leave the corner out of the equation..
In either case, some thing that meets CODE would suffice..the rail hand grasp cannot exceed 2.375" in width for grab purpose. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I also recall that the rail has to be at the starting tread, not up one as shown in the pic..the whole thing smells like a "designer" thought it was "cute"..not functional. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
We've no code enforcement here about handrails, nor much of anything else.
A lot of what goes on here is done in the Adirondack great camp style, with logs and twigs everywhere. Open riser stairs with treads of half logs, monstrous cedar-tree balustrades, none of which could pass muster.
The pic is from a house in Stowe, Vermont, and it appeared in an article in FH. My guess is that there was little said, if any, by the Vermont "authority having jurisdiction."
Well, being so. In my not so humble opinion..I don't care for the look of that.
Getting to you post tho'..I'd opt for all solid wood and be done with it. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Hey Sphere,
In most places, one tread up is legal. It makes for a great transition to the stair. Also, many people want to wind around that bottom tread, or bullnose, to go right or left. This type of application makes for a darn strong newel because you can utilize the meat of the stringer and leverage of that next step to hit your 200 pd newel strength to meet that code.
The key is to have the rail reachable from the walkline. That type of rail wouldnt pass code unless there was a secondary grab rail on the side. There are specific grab dimensions which are around 2 inches. Reason being if a person starts to fall they can grab easily. That flat surface is totally unhelpful.
Even with the 2 inches there are tons of profile options that are possible to make great rails. I can look up the exact excerpt on rail if anyone needs it.
I know you know most of this but I figured I would hit a few birds at once.
-zen
Edited 10/8/2005 7:56 pm ET by zendo
Yessir...something about that whole design just looked bad to my taste ( not that I am reknowned for GOOD taste),,,,mebe someone could build it with a clean concsionce ( huh?)...but not I. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Did you get your shop built?
I have to wait and break ground in the spring. Im planning on a traditional gable barn with garage in front and shop out back, downstairs, and curved stair to balcony overlooking the shop and loft appt. above the garage area.
I am hoping for a weekend barn raising but well see.
-zen
Nope...I hadda property dispute and subsequent survey, and a plethora of automobile costs..now, my Ma is failing a battle with Alz's and may wind up being in a mobile home on that selected site...or a "home" with assisted living.
Just wasn't in the cards so to speak...I am trying to get ANYTHING to have a separate shop space from the house, but a LONG HOT summer has whupped me..I need a rest before I can tackle anything new. And a zillion dollars.
Ahhhh, yer plan sounds sweet....best of luck. I know if ya think it out a few times, it WILL be..just be ready when it does happen, these things can be surprisingly sudden when fruition happens.
A new belt and a rawhide chewy helps..keeps yer britches up and outta the way, and something to chomp on when you find out you forgot just ONE thing...LOL Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Ive been tossing around the details, Im not sure if I can hit the scale. I dont want it to look to big, but Im thinking of putting a cupola on the roof that may sit 3-4 chairs. Id like to use bifolds so that when they are closed it just looks like vents. The stair to it would be tricky as well. It would be a great perch for small get togethers. Im not much into the 'big deck' scene. Maybe we could both get into a FHB freak shop article.
Sorry to hear about the mom. Thats tough. Its nice that you are even trying to work out the details of her being close by. Under the conditions, know ahead of time that you need to ask for help. Looking out for her is going to quickly wear you down. Check into all respite and home health programs you can find and see how many assistance hours you can squeeze out of them.
-zen
How are the balusters fastened to the treads?
While I'm a big fan of Dowel Screws they most likely wouldn't work for this application.
I would experement with putting two dowls in the bottom of each balusters and drilling coresponding holes in each tread. Then just like a regular baluster, glue the dowl and set it in place. Make sure the surface is clean. Might not hurt to hit it with a sander to expose fresh clean grain, then blow the dust off. A few carefully toenailed finish nails (preferably by gun) should be easy to make go away at finish time (Zar makes some awsome colormatched, sandable and stainable putties).
Personally, if it were to be done top notch for high $ I'd rabbit the bottoms and have a mortise and tenon attachment at the treads. However, that's a great deal of work and for most application overkill if the "newel post" is solid and your rail spans aren't too long. A couple of biscuits on each would be my choice.