Has anyone ever heard tell of different quality (price) levels on drywall finishes. I often run into a situation where the house I am trimming out has a flared out build-up of compound at the inside corners that require that they be chopped out so the base board trim can lay tight and plumb to the corner when coped. I once asked a drywall contractor about this and was told he could take the time to be neater in the corners and also fill the tapered edge of the gyp-rock sheet near the floor for a 10% up-charge. I just laughed at him and asked why he should be paid extra for doing it right (at least in the corners)? His reply was that he had done that for other GCs for years.
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Welcome to the real world kid.
DW inside or outside corners are NEVER square.
I have never seen a taper fill the taper at the bottom of the sheet.
but niether of these should effect a good coped joint.
A good trick to deal with the tapered edge at the floor is to drive a DW screw into the bottom plate about 1" from the corner on each side.
Leave it proud of the taper so it is in the same plane as the flat of the sheet.
This will hold your base Plumb so your copes fit better.
Remember not to try and nail there!
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Mr. T,
Thanks for the DW screw advice.I didn't mean to imply that the corners were not square on a horizontal plane, because I've seen few inside or outside corners that were square in that regard. What I was referring to was the horizontal flare as it gets closer to the floor.
Thanks for your response.
lazy taper
Never tries using a screw to square up trim. I used busted up door shims for this purpose.
But I'm not a pro - What do the pros do? Is the screw thingy common? Or are there 50 different ways of doing this?The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.
Boss,
I actually got it from the tips and techniques section of our favorite rag.
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Pricing by spec'd finish level is SOP. What you consider, "doing it right," is a red herring. You can do a level 1 right, a level 2 right, a level 3 right, a level 4 right and a level 5 finish right. Around here if you just look for bids without spec'ing a finish you're going to get a bid on a level 34. I've worked all over for both large and small companies along with working for myself, and I've never known it to be any different anywhere. If you want to pay someone a buck to a buck twenty a foot, you're not buying a level five finish in this neck of the woods.
Don
a good trim capr get's over the drywall conditions about a second after they walk into the joint.
Adjust it..make it look good...move on. JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Jeff,
Didn't mean to sound like a whiner. Live in a small community and have few options as far as DW subs go. Just asking about conditions in other areas...........................................moving on...............
that's just the life in trim....
usually takes less time to adjust things and make yourself look good than the energy to figure out who screwed up and then get told..that's what ya have to work with.
I come from a background in remodeling...so I've come to expect everything to be outta whack. I see lotsa new const finish guys go thru my old company which does design/build...which is a fancy way of saying remodeling.....and the new const guys generally have a head time of dealing with the fact they gotta do some work...before they can do their work.
So.....might not be right...but ya just gotta get used to it....develope some tricks...and move on.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite