Replies

1. 
   manimal | Mar 21, 2005 05:57pm | #1

   hey there,i would have to say pl premium or 5000 constuction adhesive is your best bet.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 21, 2005 06:24pm | #2

   I agree on the PL, but it takes a long time to set up.

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   Mattohio | Mar 21, 2005 06:37pm | #3

   Ed,
   In the past I have used PL with dabs of hot melt glue to hold things in place until the PL dries.Matt

2. 
   manimal | Mar 21, 2005 09:54pm | #4

   yes it does take a while to set up, but as long as your brick wall dosent have any serious jogs or high spots in it you shouldnt have to worry about it pulling away from the wall as long as you apply the pl , stick it to the wall then pull it away off the wall and leave it sit for 5min then stick it back on you should be fine.you could always use certain household objects to put up against it to help it stay put if need be.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 22, 2005 12:32am | #5

   I've never tried the stick & pull away technique.  Does that make it work more like contact cement?

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   manimal | Mar 22, 2005 12:48am | #6

   ya a little,the air contact with the pl somehow reacts with eachother and makes it grab a little better.

2. 
   mike4244 | Mar 22, 2005 02:00am | #7

   Fasten the quarter round to the subfloor by toenailing. This is the correct way with any shoe molding regardless of the wall material.

   mike

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 22, 2005 02:06am | #8

   That could be difficult.  The room used to be a screened porch, I raised the floor with 2x4 sleepers and 3/4 ply, so nailing at an angle will put the nails into the brick.  If I can nail vertically, that might work.

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   cynwyd | Mar 22, 2005 03:08am | #11

    

   If you were to drill for your nail hole at an angle greater than 90 you could nail into all wood - if you're willing to hand nail. That and maybe some flashing to protect the brick from scratches as you'd be so close to the wall.

3. 
   Danusan11 | Mar 22, 2005 02:31am | #9

   3M marine adhesive

4. 
   JohnSr | Mar 22, 2005 02:48am | #10

   Had the same situation in my house.  I used 5 minute epoxy mixed with glass beads to prevent the epoxy from running.  Worked well - been down for 5 years - no problem.

5. 
   basswood | Mar 22, 2005 05:14am | #12

   I still use PL products during the framing and rough work phase, but now prefer LocTite PowerGrab for most finish work. Much higher intial tack and cleans up easily with water (should you get some on that nice new floor or your hands--of course the PL stuff will wear off your fingers in a week or so ; ). Shopvac the brick first though.

6. 
   Sphere | Mar 22, 2005 05:40am | #13

   You really need to ask?

   I am curious, do you?

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 22, 2005 03:12pm | #14

   I don't really understand your message.  I had thought of using PL or Liq Nails at first, but was wondering if I was missing something obvious.  I don't really want to use PL cuz it will make removal very difficult in the future.

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 22, 2005 05:39pm | #15

   Sorry, I wuz being a wiseaxe...

   I don't see why ya cant brad to the floor, let it float at the brick. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 22, 2005 06:49pm | #17

   Yeah, but if the floor does move, then the gap opens at the brick. 

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 22, 2005 07:05pm | #18

   I hear dat. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

2. 
   oak | Mar 23, 2005 12:14am | #20

   velcro...really easy to remove in the future..

3. 
   manimal | Mar 23, 2005 12:28am | #21

   velcro huh,i never heard of that before.what do you plan to do with the gap which would prob. be 1/2 inch or so between the wall and the quater round?i dont think you could just caulk the top of that and walk away,especially with brick.

4. 
   oak | Mar 23, 2005 06:19am | #22

   use thinner velcro :)

5. 
   FastEddie1 | Mar 25, 2005 05:39am | #23

   After action report ...

   I used hot glue and PL.  Started by running a bead of PL on the back of the trim, discovered that wasn't the best idea cuz the trim only contacts the brick at the high spots, typically the joints.  I applied a couple of globs of hot glue to the trim and press it into place.  On the second piece I dropped it on the wood floor, PL and hot glue on the down side.  After cleaning that mess, the next version was to put blobs of PL at the high spots, the carefully put a couple of blobs of hot glue about every 10-12 inches, and press into place.

   Also discovered that it worked best with trim pieces not more than about 6 ft long, cuz that's as far as my arm stretch.  The good part is that the bricks were cool enough that the hot glue set up pretty quickly, and I didn't have to stay "in position" for more than 30-45 seconds.

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

6. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Mar 25, 2005 06:24am | #24

   Shoot it into the briks with your Hilti. Use the RED power charges and 2 1/2" hardened pins. If they stick out a little, shoot it again with the Reds!

   Send pictures after your done.

   Lag bolts might work good too!

   blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!

   Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!

2. 
   basswood | Mar 22, 2005 05:58pm | #16

   The Loctite PowerGrab I mentioned has stronger intial tack than PL but is much easier to remove later, if need be. Try it sometime.Edit to add: I use it for toekick, cabinet end panels, crown molding, etc.

   Edited 3/22/2005 11:13 am ET by basswood

7. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 22, 2005 11:21pm | #19

   nail it to the floor ...

   next question please.

    

   Jeff

     Buck Construction 

      Artistry in Carpentry

           Pgh, PA