Question about header when using metal studs
I have not ever worked with metal studs. I’ve also worked in lumber and wood. A school I’m helping recently had a crew come in from out of state to help with some work (I was away on vacation).
They opened up two doorways — 8 feet and 10 feet wide — in non load-bearing, internal walls.
I was there today to finish casing it, when I realized there is no header. In lumber, even in a non load-bearing wall, I’d do a header, and especially on doorways of eight and ten feet. I’ve never worked in steel, but I have to ask — don’t you need a header? All they did to case the opening (one of the openings) was screw in wood nailing blocks to the bottom of the steel studs so they could nail the trim board up. This just seems really sloppy to me, but I wanted others’ opinions since this is not a material I work in.
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No one works with steel framing around here? :)
I've just seen it done a few times. When wood trim will be used I usually see the header and trimmers stuffed with 2x. For metal trim they skip that. Sometimes you see the entire opening framed in wood.
I think partly it's a code issue. If the metal framing is being used for fire resistance then the amount of wood is kept to a minimum.
I usually see a pre hung door used in the metal R/O. Your trim nails up to the framing of the P/H door.
why a header?
If its a non load bearing wall... why do you think a header is necessary? Would it be to only support its own framing material? If so, it seems to me to be very situational and ought to be on the plans.
Yes, non-load bearing, but it does need to hold the wall board up over either side across a 10 foot span. This was volunteer work done for a school. There were architect's plans given, but they were not followed (he called for sistered steel studs as a header).
I spoke with the architect today, and he said that structurally, the building is fine with no header there. It's only the wall itself that needs it. He said the steel crippeled studs are likely not attached to the top plate (but he didn't know, as the building predates his involvement), so he's concerned the weight of the gypsum is not being supported, and he recommends that we could do a 2X8 or even 2X6 header in lumber if need be. Problem is, we need to move on, so we're debating if we do this rework or not.
Headers in metal framing
My introduction in the construction business was in residential where wood was king. When I did my first commercial job, I had the same feeling you had. Where are the headers?
Actually, in non load bearing metal framing, the gyp. board is part of the structure and not simply a surface to accept a finish. The no header is one example. Another is when a furr down is constructed. Say a 12" high x 24" wide drop over a counter or something.
First the metal tracks are fastened to the ceiling 22 &3/4" apart, then 11&3/8" wide pcs. of 5/8" gyp. is hung vertically from the tracks. Next a pc. of track is fastened at the bot. of the vert. gyp. bd. Finally, a 24" wide pc. of gyp. bottom is fastened to the tracks. There are no short vertical or horz. framing members as you would have if framed with wood. The gyp. bd. is holding it together.
It took me a while to get used to this sort of thing, but that seems to be the way its done and those guys can slap that stuff together fast.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think I hear you say the no header is par for the course. And the fact that we cut into an existing wall (non load bearing) doesn't change the approach?
An opening in a metal framed wall.
Needs only to anchor the sheetrock and hold it up where it belongs so no cracks appear in the joints. If wood trim necessitates wrapping the opening in wood (whether non-combustible or regular), then that should have been done.
In most partition walls you might find the metal studs "crimped" to the tracks-this holds it in position until the sheetrock is applied.
However, in many cases the top and bottoms are screwed to the track. In your opening which was cut into an existing wall, I would have let in more steel studs to either side, then fastened a track to those studs (at the top of the opening), which would capture all the bottoms of the cut studs in the opening. (or if the opening went from existing studs in the wall, still let in that track at the top of the opening. In this case, the "wall studs are held up by the top track and that let in track (at the head of the opening).
As was stated above, this is a whole assembly, sturdy because of its parts. Its the remodelers job to decide if his opening compromised the wall. If they knew what they were doing I would be confident in the job. If they didn't..........................find out what was done and/or rework if necessary.