Replies

1. 
   Adam_Greisz | Jul 07, 2000 06:42am | #1

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   In all of the radiant installations that I have been associated with we layed out the location of the future walls. We then made sure that the radiant tubing was not installed under any walls. Good luck.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 2000 12:04pm | #2

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   Work it around interior partitions as Adam suggests. Take pictures of the install and use the grid of the wire reinf. to scale out the location after everything is covered up. Or lay down a story pole with marks you can see for the photo.

   Your hose shouldn't be close enough to the surface for a metal track pin to penetrate but keeping the hose away from wall locations will make you feel better. Best of luck.

3. 
   Jim_K_ | Jul 07, 2000 12:57pm | #3

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   Ditto on skirting walls (or sleeving the tube if you have to), following a grid, and taking pictures. It helped us more than once. Depth of tube can be almost anything, but we were told to put it nearer the top than the bottom--just not so close to the top as to leave shadow lines or weak concrete. In a 4" pour, I'd make sure it's covered by at least 1 or 1.5". We just finished a gypcrete floor, and that's poured to only 1.5", so the tube is covered only 3/4".

1. 
   Matthew_lanphier | Jul 11, 2000 12:01am | #4

   *Thank You for your reply, Unfortunately I was brought on as lead without any prior knowledge of either the radiant heat or its location, and was not told until after the fact. Contractor obviously overlooked some major design decisions (astounding!!!), and was eager to receive payment for work completed.I have since left the company, but wanted to see what others had to say, as far as peace of mind. We ended up using industrial grade epoxy to fasten our plates down. (what a *&^%$#@ nightmare!) Lesson learned.

1. 
   Jim_K_ | Jul 11, 2000 12:13am | #5

   *I've been told of a trick that might work if you still have the concrete floors exposed, which should be the case if the walls aren't up. Turn on the heat, and spray the floor lightly w/ water. The water should evaporate faster where the tube is and slower be/t tubes. Then you can mark tube locations. Didn't get to try it, so it could be an old wive's tale...

1. 
   Matthew_lanphier | Jul 11, 2000 03:23am | #6

   *Well, Your trick sounds good in theory, but because we were putting a laminated wood flooring down over the concrete- I needed to fix a spot in the concrete with a self leveling compound. In the process of both cleaning dust and debris off the floor we applied a substantial amount of standing water. No luck, the concrete heats up in a rather uniform manner, therefore the water dries up as if it were sitting in a parking lot on a sunny day. I was told that if you were able to see a linear drying pattern you actually might have the hosing spaced too far apart, which might mean that you can experience both warm and cool spots in the floor and room. Although radiant heat is definetly not my expertise, its rapidly becoming. Thanks for the interest.

4. 
   Matthew_lanphier | Jul 11, 2000 03:23am | #7

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   If there is anyone out there with reliable information on depth and placement of tubing in a radiant-heated concrete floor, I would be greatly appreciative to hear from them. Along with depth, has any tradesman solved the problem (or concern!) of attaching pressure treated or light gauge steel bottom plates to concrete with hydronic tubing present. All responses and inquiries would and will be appreciated. Thanks!