Apologies since this question has been asked (many times) before, but I’m looking for advice based on the latest available options, and the archives are a bit dated….
Anyway, the project I’m working on is an addition with 2 BR’s and a rehab bath- the main house is on forced air. We figured the existing heating unit would be maxed by the addition, but didn’t know for sure until we had it installed. Yep, it’s maxed- the addition is lower than the main house, so it’s stays noticeably colder. The project is in a mountain area that gets regular snow and cold in the winters (So Cal mountains, not MN or ME-style winters).
Now that the limits of the existing heat unit are clear, I’m considering alternatives- tile is planned for the bath- there’s backerboard installed- the BR’s will probably get engineered wood flooring. The subfloor on the whole project is TJI’s at 16″ oc, 3/4″ T&G ply- floor is already insulated with R30. There’s about 500 sf of total living space.
I’ve looked at various options, from NuHeat to SunTouch/Warmwire to STEP Warmly and others- I’d like an option that is logical for the flooring types, reasonably easy to install, doesn’t create elevations diffs. from the bath to hall, isn’t hellaciously expensive….is that asking too much? Any recommendations on products that have worked well for you lately that would fill the bill?
Thanks for the thoughts.
Replies
On my wood framed floors, I made my own warm board using 3/4" plywood cut into 8" strips w/ a slight bevel. I cut the end curves to fit. I bought the preformed metal plates and placed them like 24" oc over the top of the tubing. My wife and I worked the plywood and tubing in place. I worked pretty well. It does raise the floor 3/4", but I had planned for that. I was lucky and scored almost a unit of gently used plywood.
If I recall, I didn't worry about the small gaps created on the outside of the corners. The tubing hugged the corner and the end piece held it in place at the center of the half circle. Wood flooring spans the small gap w/ no issues, really. Kept the cutting much simpler for normal back and forth runs. I had a lot of details to deal with, but it really worked out pretty well.
Tried to post a couple of pics, but it's not letting me ... not sure why, they aren't large. I could e-mail to you maybe.
How much wood is in a "unit"?
How much wood is in a "unit"?
Options
that don't change floor heights or are very expensive. You mentioned having forced air in the rest of the house, so hydronics are probably out the question. Under the tile, the wire mesh/matts are the best option, IF that costs too much, the ony other realistic options are electric wall heaters or electric baseboard heaters. If this bath will be iused regularly in the winter, don't leave out the electric tile warmers.
Simple electric baseboards in the BRs will be one of the least expensive options to buy and install, but depending on your utility rates, one of the most expensive to use.
Electric BB heat will cost you anywhere from $0.5 to $1.5/sf. A stand alone simple hydronic infloor system will cost you $8 to $10/sf. A small forced air system will cost you $2 to 3 /sq. ft. That's based on only 500 sf and if you can find the products "at contractor prices" and install them yourself.
I've been considering baseboard heat as a last resort- I know that BB heat technology has improved in recent years, but it's still less preferable.
Anyone had any experience with the STEP Warmly (or similar) systems? Heat mats that are stapled under the sublfoor, and run from low voltage....I have good access to the subfloor, and could easily remove the insulation. Any idea how their performance/energy use compares with heat mats or coil systems?
Thanks again for your help.
Keep in mind that any electric resistance heating option is going to be expensive to operate.
I do not have
any experience with that particular product, but it takes a much higher temperature to heat through the subfloor. In a hydronic based system, imbedded tubes under tile would run at 85 to 95 degress F. Staple up between the joists would be on the order of 160 to 170. A viable option with hot water, probabley not with electrics.
Heating with resistence electric heat can be very expensive year after year.
Perhaps a mini-split forced air heat pump would work for you.